Nearly everyone has heard of the Seychelles, but many people are unsure where these islands lie. They are not south of France or in the Caribbean. The Republic of Seychelles sits about 1,000 miles off the east coast of Africa, roughly seven degrees south of the equator in the Indian Ocean. From the United States it typically takes around 20 hours to reach the islands (the author flew from New York via Dubai), and travel here is not inexpensive.
Still, if paradise exists, it is on these 115 granite and coralline islands, where temperatures hover near 80°F (about 27°C). Natural disasters are rare: the Seychelles sit outside the cyclone belt and the 2004 tsunami caused minimal damage. The consistent, temperate climate makes the islands attractive year-round, though the wet season runs from November through April.
Compared with Mauritius and Madagascar, which have stronger Indian and Austronesian influences, the Seychelles feel distinctly African. Beyond the world-class beaches and water sports—snorkeling, scuba diving, swimming—there are many other activities. Explore sand cays and granite mountain jungles, visit lively markets, meet century-old tortoises, play golf, sail, or hike scenic trails.
Of course you will want to spend plenty of time in the crystal-blue water. While private beaches are uncommon, many hotels and resorts protect stretches of shoreline that are accessible only through their property, offering a semi-private beach experience for guests.
One great advantage is the ease of island-hopping. Popular islands like Mahé, Praslin, La Digue and Silhouette are close enough to travel between quickly. In addition, private islands such as North Island, Frégate, Denis and Desroches host some of the world’s most luxurious resorts. Each island has unique draws: Desroches is renowned for saltwater fly-fishing and deep-sea fishing, while Denis is a top destination for bonefishing.
With so much to offer, it’s no surprise the Seychelles once hosted the honeymoon of a royal couple.
DIVERSIONS
The largest and main island is Mahé, home to roughly 80,000 residents and a concentration of resorts. Dramatic granite boulders and lush interior hills define the landscape. Mahé is also the cultural hub: Victoria, the capital, hosts a busy Saturday market selling textiles, crafts, fruit and vanilla; the Hindu temple offers traditional blessings; and the fish market provides the day’s fresh catch.
A short 15-minute plane ride or one-hour ferry will take you to Praslin, the second-largest island with about 5,000 residents and a quieter hotel scene. Praslin is close to two UNESCO World Heritage sites: Aldabra Atoll, the world’s largest raised coral atoll and home to a vast population of giant tortoises, and the verdant Vallée de Mai, a preserved forest where the iconic coco-de-mer palms grow. Walking the shaded trails offers chances to spot native birds such as black parrots, hummingbirds and other local species. Nearby Anse Lazio, often cited among the world’s best beaches, is a short drive from Vallée de Mai and not to be missed.
La Digue is a brief ferry ride away and is home to Anse Source d’Argent, one of the most photographed beaches on Earth. The granitic Inner Islands feature enormous boulders and powdery white sand and are prime spots for dolphin sightings. At L’Union Estate visitors can tour an old copra processing site—copra being the dried flesh of coconut that once fueled a major local industry—and view century-old tortoises at the Tortoise Pen.
Nature lovers should consider Silhouette Island, a mountainous island with no conventional roads connecting north and south, and just one resort plus a small village. It’s ideal for travelers seeking solitude and wilderness.
Frégate Island is a private granite island accessible by a short flight from Mahé. With seven secluded beaches, a history of piracy lore, and tales of adventurers like Ian Fleming searching for treasure, Frégate now caters to high-end travelers. The single resort on the island operates with a strong conservation focus to protect fragile ecosystems and endangered species.
More remote coral islands farther from Mahé are excellent for saltwater fly-fishing. Areas around Alphonse and Aldabra Atoll are sometimes compared to the Galápagos for their unique marine life and biodiversity.
Local cuisine is served primarily by small, family-run restaurants known for warm hospitality. Flavors blend Indian, Chinese, French and Creole influences, and seafood is central—tuna, kingfish and octopus are common, often grilled or fried in garlic-butter or prepared as “cari” (curries). Breadfruit is a national staple, and Guinness is surprisingly popular as a beverage choice.
Nightlife in the Seychelles tends to be low-key: stargazing, hotel-hosted live entertainment and evening barbecues are the norm. In Victoria, The Pirates Arms on Independence Avenue offers a relaxed atmosphere. The island’s art-deco Deepam Cinema screens a mix of Hollywood and Bollywood films, with two weekday showings and three on weekends.
For dancing and late-night fun, options are limited but lively. On Mahé, Katiolo’s (between the international airport and Anse Royale) is known for its dress code and fashionable crowd, while Ozone in La Plaine St. André competes with themed nights and prizes. On Praslin, venues such as The Jungle and Oxygen provide local nightlife options.
Gaming is a glamorous pastime for some visitors. Casinos and amusement centers in Victoria and resort areas feature slots, roulette, blackjack and backgammon, and some establishments even offer free nightly lessons for beginners.
Info To GoSeychelles International Airport (SEZ) is located on Mahé, about seven miles southeast of Victoria. Regular buses depart from Victoria’s bus station every 20 to 30 minutes, and taxis are readily available. The domestic terminal is a short walk from the international terminal and provides frequent flights to neighboring islands. |
LodgingBANYAN TREE SEYCHELLES: Sixty villas designed like spacious bungalows, each with a private pool, veranda and king-sized bed. Anse Intendance, Mahé, tel 248 438 3500. Luxury resort. LE DOMAINE DE L’ORANGERAIE: Forty-five villas on a quiet island with few cars; ideal for privacy and cycling into the sunset. Anse Sévère, La Digue, tel 248 429 9999. Luxury resort. FOUR SEASONS RESORT SEYCHELLES: Sixty-seven villas and suites built in traditional Creole style using natural materials and stilted designs. Petite Anse, Baie Lazare, Mahé, tel 248 439 3000. Luxury resort. |
DiningCHEZ LAMAR: Located in a colonial-style house, the restaurant serves a mix of West European, African, Caribbean and Indian-influenced dishes. Banyan Tree Seychelles, Anse Intendance, Mahé, tel 248 438 3500. LA FEUILLE D’OR: Known for international and local cuisine with live entertainment twice weekly; a smart-casual dress code applies in the evening. Hotel L’Archipel, Anse Government, Praslin, tel 248 428 4700. ZEZ: An open-air dining venue that takes advantage of warm weather and local breezes; the restaurant is part of the Four Seasons Resort and offers a relaxed, elegant setting. Petite Anse, Baie Lazare, Mahé, tel 248 439 3000. |