It had been a long, rainy winter in Paris when I finally escaped to the French Riviera, the sun-drenched stretch of coastline in southern France that runs from the France–Italy border to the red rock Massif de l’Esterel. I was drawn south by a craving for warmth on my shoulders and the lullaby of crashing waves—a pull that felt instinctive after months of gray skies.
Heading south to the Riviera in winter is a long-standing tradition. The train south filled with Parisians seeking mild weather, a reminder that winter was once the prime season here. More than a century ago many hotels and restaurants actually closed during summer, catering instead to les hivernants, wealthy Europeans and royals who flocked to the coast for sun-filled winters. The 1920s shifted that pattern when an American couple persuaded a hotel to stay open for summer parties and soirées, and gradually the region’s high season moved to summer.
Places like Saint-Tropez, Nice, Antibes and Cannes emerged as summer playgrounds for sunbathers and Rosé drinkers, alongside celebrities and jetsetters. In recent years the Riviera has reclaimed winter as a compelling season, reestablishing itself as an antidote to dreary weather. Today the Côte d’Azur is a year-round destination where visitors can promenade, soak up sunlight, and enjoy coastal scenery and fishing traditions whenever they arrive.
© Arev St. Tropez
Between December and March daytime temperatures typically reach the high 50s Fahrenheit, dropping into the low 40s at night, while roughly eight hours of sunshine a day make outdoor enjoyment pleasant. As more hotels and shops stay open year-round, the Riviera is increasingly welcoming a new generation of hivernants who want mild climates and relaxed seaside living outside the busy summer months.
One example of this shift is Arev St. Tropez, which opened in March 2024 and committed to staying open all year. The boutique property channels classic Riviera style with a bold nautical palette of blue, white and red. Its 50 individually designed rooms and suites showcase French linens and locally crafted ceramics; options range from rooms with private gardens and fireplaces to poolside suites built for entertaining.
The Riviera also has a long history as a wellness destination. People once followed doctors’ orders to bathe in sunlight and enjoy the therapeutic climate. Today that legacy continues in spas and thermal-inspired treatments. Arev honors that past by keeping its pool heated and open year-round, echoing the Roman thermal baths whose remains still exist in Nice’s Jardin des Arènes de Cimiez. Modern visitors come for bespoke spa rituals, tailored treatments, and a slower pace that centers relaxation and rejuvenation.
© Euphotica | Dreamstime.com
Arev has partnered with Saint-Tropez perfumer Maison ST to weave natural fragrances into its spa program. Guests can even create a personalized massage oil blend before treatments, many of which incorporate local elements like Saint-Tropez sand and Mediterranean algae.
The Riviera’s scented hills inspired some of the world’s great perfumers and earned the region its reputation as the land of perfume. From January to March bright yellow blooms cascade over hillsides and perfume the air with honeyed fragrance along the 80-mile Mimosa Route, which runs from Bormes-les-Mimosas to Grasse. In Grasse visitors can join hands-on workshops at historic perfume houses such as Fragonard, Galimard and Molinard to craft their own scents.
Ancient olive trees also punctuate the landscape. The prized cailletier olive, known for exceptional oils and tapenades, is a specialty of Nice and often carries Protected Designation of Origin labeling. Blended into tapenade with anchovies, these olives are a perfect topping for socca, the region’s chickpea-flour flatbread. A warm wedge of socca paired with a chilled local Rosé captures the Riviera’s simple pleasures: warm sun, salty sea breeze, and flavors that taste of place, regardless of season.
© Arev St. Tropez
LODGING
AREV ST. TROPEZ
Old-school luxury and personality-driven hospitality inform this 50-room boutique hotel. Many rooms include private gardens and Champagne trolleys circulate throughout the day.
8 Chemin des Vendanges,
Saint-Tropez
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HÔTEL DU COUVENT, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL
Housed in a former 17th-century convent, this recently reopened property offers 88 rooms, three restaurants, Roman baths, and a weekend artisan market.
1 Rue Honoré Ugo, Nice
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HÔTEL BARRIÈRE LE MAJESTIC CANNES
An iconic Cannes landmark just off the Croisette, featuring a private movie theater, acclaimed restaurants, and 349 rooms and suites.
10 Blvd. de la Croisette,
Cannes
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DINING
CHEZ PIPO
A Niçoise institution known for wood-fired socca and Provençal dishes such as pistou soup and Swiss chard pie.
13 Rue Bavastro, Nice
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LE FIGUIER DE SAINT ESPRIT
Perched on the ramparts of Old Antibes, this Michelin-starred restaurant by chef Christian Morisset serves seasonal, refined cuisine in a historic setting.
7 Promenade Amiral de Grasse,
Antibes
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RIVIERA
Set on a clifftop at The Maybourne Riviera, this restaurant showcases chef Mauro Colagreco’s take on regional dishes, using seasonal ingredients and offering panoramic views.
1551 Route de la Turbie,
Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
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INFO TO GO
The French Riviera is served by three airports: Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, Cannes-Mandelieu Airport and Toulon–Hyères Airport. Nice is the main international gateway and receives some direct flights from the United States. Many travelers also fly into Paris Charles de Gaulle and take the high-speed TGV, a roughly 5.5-hour journey to Nice, or drive along the A8 motorway in about eight hours.