For New Yorkers Pauline and Chris Walsh, 13 consecutive years vacationing on Puerto Rico’s northwest coast have created lasting friendships with fellow travelers and locals alike. Their visits even inspired an annual softball tournament between Chris’ Staten Island league and teams from Isabela, strengthening bonds across communities.
“We have loved Villas del Mar Hau and that side of the island since our first stay in 2003,” Pauline says. “Back then the road from Jobos Beach to Montones Beach in Isabela was still dirt. Now it’s paved, with guardrails and a bike-and-walk path. The area’s natural beauty and relaxed pace never disappoint — we’re seriously considering spending a few months a year here when we retire.”
Western Puerto Rico appeals to couples, families and surfers from around the world. Whether you stay a weekend or a month, the vibe is casual, even in upscale venues. A typical morning could include snorkeling or surfing in warm Caribbean waters, followed by lunch at a beachfront restaurant shaded by palm trees. Expect simple, satisfying fare: fried pork chops, rice and beans, cold beer, and freshly caught fish and seafood. Beachfront dining is informal, and you’ll often see patrons and staff barefoot.
Beginners can try surfing in Isabela at Playa Shacks, where Hang Loose Surf Shop rents boards and the gentler surf makes learning easy. After a lesson, drive seven minutes to Jobos Beach for lunch at Sonido del Mar, an open-air spot just steps from the water serving coconut mojitos, shrimp and lobster with ocean views.
Aguadilla © PUERTO RICO TOURISM COMPANY
About 45 minutes from Isabela, Rincón hosted the 1968 Surfing World Championships and remains known as the surfing capital of the Caribbean. From November to March especially, the Sunset Coast north of Rincón — including Spanish Wall, Indicators, Maria’s, Tres Palmas and Domes — attracts surfers seeking reef breaks and long, fast waves. In winter some swells can soar to 25–30 feet. Annual surfing contests bring competitors and spectators, and the west-facing beaches deliver dramatic orange sunsets nearly every evening. Rincón’s Desecheo Surf and Dive Shop rents snorkeling and surfing equipment, while local dive operators organize charters for snorkeling, diving, fishing, whale-watching and sunset cruises.
Founded in 1771, Rincón buzzes with energy during winter, when surfers and visitors from the mainland arrive in force. Even off-season, beach bars, outdoor cafés, boutiques, galleries, surf and scuba rental shops, hotels and markets stay open year-round, creating a lively, youthful atmosphere. Visit the Rincón lighthouse, rebuilt in 1922 after an earthquake destroyed the original 1892 tower; the lighthouse park offers sweeping views of Domes Beach and Desecheo Island and is a good vantage point for whale-watching during humpback season from mid-January to mid-March.
If you plan a spring trip, consider visiting in April for the Rincón International Film Festival. Weekly local activities include the Rincón Farmer’s Market on Sunday mornings at Town Plaza, which features fresh produce and local crafts, and the Rincón Art Walk on Thursday evenings with gallery visits, boutique browsing and stops at neighborhood bars and snack shacks.
For food with a view, Tamboo Seaside Grill in Rincón offers oceanfront dining on a two-level deck above sand dunes, just minutes from the lighthouse. The adjoining Tamboo Bar features live music and a lively atmosphere and is frequently recognized as one of the area’s best bars.
Two worthwhile excursions from Rincón: travel 15 miles east to Moca, a hilly town named after a flowering tree and known for its lacework and the pink Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Monserrate church; or drive 30 minutes south to Mayagüez, Puerto Rico’s third-largest city, to admire Spanish-style architecture like Plaza Colón, La Alcaldía (City Hall), the Art Deco Teatro Yagüez, and Barrio Paris with its cafés and bookstores.
In recent years, Puerto Rico’s stunning landscapes and wildlife have been clouded by reports about the Zika virus and the island’s economic struggles. These issues reduced visitor arrivals in certain seasons, though tourism rebounded as summer approached. Meetings and convention business was hit harder, with significant cancellations and lost revenue that the territory can ill afford.
Economic pressures have also driven many residents to leave. The Puerto Rico Healthcare Crisis Coalition reports thousands of doctors and countless other residents relocating to the U.S. mainland since 2010. This population decline is one of the sharpest seen in U.S. territories in recent decades.
The Walshes say the Zika outbreak did not deter them. “We weren’t worried about getting Zika,” Chris said, noting that none of the players on his New York team canceled their trip. They acknowledged, however, that many visitors did cancel, which further strained the local economy.
As of Aug. 24, Puerto Rico reported 8,746 locally acquired mosquito-borne cases of Zika. The government requires hotels to carry out mosquito-control measures to protect guests.
A practical upside for travelers: with fewer visitors, beaches and attractions are generally less crowded. While hotels may not advertise broad discounts, some properties may offer upgrades or extra amenities as a courtesy to guests.
Puerto Rico Info to Go
JetBlue offers direct flights to Aguadilla (BQN) from New York (JFK), Orlando (MCO) and Fort Lauderdale (FLL); United flies from Newark (EWR). Rental cars are available at the airport to reach Isabela (about 12 miles, 25 minutes) or Rincón (about 15 miles, 40 minutes). From San Juan (SJU), driving to Isabela takes roughly 90 minutes and to Rincón about two hours. As a U.S. territory, Puerto Rico admits U.S. citizens with standard U.S. photo identification — a passport is not required for entry.
Where to Stay in Puerto Rico
Horned Dorset Primavera An upscale retreat near galleries and surf spots, offering 16 villas with private plunge pools, gourmet meals and a private beach. Apartado 1132, Rincón $$$$$
Parador Villas del Mar Hau Forty-six colorful beachside studios and cottages with a casual on-site restaurant serving fresh seafood and Caribbean views. Sector Bajuras Road 466, Montones Beach, Isabela $$$
Tres Sirenas Beach Inn An adult-focused beachfront inn where all rooms have sea views, verandas, complimentary homemade breakfast and free WiFi. 26 Sea Beach Drive, Rincón $$$–$$$$
Restaurants in Puerto Rico
Chateau Rose Overlooking the sea, Chateau Rose serves French-Caribbean cuisine, desserts, a wide wine selection and a piano lounge. Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel, Apartado 1132, Rincón $$$–$$$$
Tamboo Bar & Seaside Grill Classic Puerto Rican ingredients with American-style preparations, including steaks, dorado, grouper and grilled lobster; casual indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the beach. Road 413 Interior, Sandy Beach, Rincón $$$–$$$$
Uva Playa Dining with views of the Bay of Mayagüez, featuring dishes such as duck with risotto, mofongo, conch fritters and dorado with garlic cream sauce. Guanajibo Blvd. 552, Mayagüez $$$$