DIAPHANOUS, the mist rises from the Amstel River like a ribbon of smoke. We huddle on the leather seats of a snug, century-old saloon boat finished in dark wood and polished brass. Our bearded captain, an embodiment of maritime calm, guides us away from the dock for an evening tour through Amsterdam’s canals. I sip Champagne and take a last look at our hotel, the InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam, one of the city’s most storied and luxurious addresses. Lit up at night like cut crystal, the hotel seems to bid us well and coax us back to its warm beds after our cruise.
We glide beneath illuminated bridges and along riverside paths where couples walk hand in hand and cyclists weave between them. Narrow canal houses line both banks and climb toward the moon; warm lights reveal everyday scenes inside as life in Amsterdam unspools. The captain serves canapés, and the scene feels as if conjured from a painting.
This air of intimate coziness is the Dutch idea of gezellig — convivial warmth, charm and a gentle sense of belonging. Back at the Amstel, that feeling continues. With its French Renaissance façade, gilded ceilings and original plasterwork, the hotel radiates old-world elegance. Chandeliers glimmer, mahogany panels grace the elevators, and our Royal Suite — once occupied by the Dutch king and queen — offers river views, Delftware, mahogany-inlaid furniture, a canopied silk-damask bed, rare 17th-century Parisian dressers and an antique bathtub with brass fixtures. It’s a thoroughly refined refuge.
Self-portrait sign at the entrance to the Van Gogh Museum © INNA FELKER | DREAMSTIME.COM
The next morning the sound of bikes is my gentle alarm: the soft whir of wheels, the knock of frames on cobbles. Bicycles dominate this city of canals; peering out the window, I watch them stream past in every direction. Amsterdam’s dollhouse canal homes, small cold beers, abundant tulips and ubiquitous cruiser bikes have long been charms of the city for me. During my stay I indulged my appetite for museums — the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Stedelijk, exhibits at the Nieuwe Kerk and the Hermitage’s canal-side venue showing treasures from St. Petersburg — and enjoyed cheese aged to caramelized perfection, lively coffeehouses, Delft ceramics, antiques and a candid Red Light District. Yet the greatest impression remains the hum of life in the bike lanes.
First and foremost, learn to ride like an Amsterdammer (cross tram tracks carefully, yield to the right, avoid riding two abreast) — or, as a pedestrian, learn to dodge them. Recent figures suggest close to one bike per resident, roughly 600,000 cycles navigating the streets of this 900-year-old city. Young and old, affluent and modest — everyone pedals, and few wear helmets. With countless canals, narrow lanes and more than a thousand bridges, bicycles rule. My children found it endlessly entertaining: dogs peering from flowered baskets, a man juggling a vase while steering with his knees, two kids clinging to their parent’s waist — Amsterdam’s bike culture feels like a theatrical parade.
The Nine Streets with vintage stores and cozy cafés © INGE HOGENBIJL | DREAMSTIME.COM
Beyond cycling, Amsterdam is a family-friendly city filled with museums that offer hands-on activities and kid-oriented corners. The Van Gogh Museum runs treasure hunts for children, and The Nine Streets — a picturesque 17th-century neighborhood — offers galleries, antiques and boutiques for varied tastes. Families can rent paddle boats, take canal cruises, or explore on two-wheeled city tours. On Wednesdays, a long-running puppet show in Dam Square delights young audiences. The Anne Frank House, housed in the original canal dwelling where families hid during World War II, is a moving, essential visit for older children and adults alike. Trams are convenient and charming: my kids especially enjoyed a vintage tram from Haarlemmermeer Station with wooden seats and a distinctive bell that rattles all the way to Amsterdamse Bos, a park filled with peacocks and pancake stands selling sweet and savory Dutch treats.
Stack of traditional stroopwafels © VANILLAECHOES | DREAMSTIME.COM
Food in Amsterdam ranges from street snacks to refined cuisine. Try patat (fries with mayonnaise); hutspot (a hearty stew of braised beef, carrots and mashed potatoes); Dutch cheeses such as Edam and Gouda; salty or sweet licorice in many shapes; and stroopwafels, thin waffle cookies filled with caramel syrup. Trendy bars and hidden speakeasies satisfy contemporary tastes, but for a classic local experience visit Café Hoppe, a brown café dating back to the 17th century. Order a kopstoot — a tulip glass of jenever (Dutch gin) paired with a small beer. The ritual is to take the jenever first, then the beer. Share the moment with friends, but don’t attempt to cycle home after several rounds. Proost!
Amsterdam Info to Go
Fly into Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, a well-equipped and pleasant airport about 20 minutes by train or taxi from the city center. The airport offers numerous dining options, an art collection, massage services, rest areas and showers for travelers seeking comfort on arrival or before departure.
Where to Stay in Amsterdam
GRAND HOTEL AMRÂTH Once headquarters for major shipping companies, this Art Nouveau hotel celebrates its maritime past in elegant interiors and offers amenities such as a complimentary spa and minibar. Prins Hendrikkade 108
INTERCONTINENTAL AMSTEL AMSTERDAM Set above the Amstel River in a 150-year-old gilded mansion, this hotel welcomes guests to posh suites and an acclaimed restaurant, La Rive. Professor Tulpplein 1
PULITZER AMSTERDAM Located in the Jordaan within a cluster of 25 connected Golden Age canal houses, the Pulitzer blends exposed beams, high ceilings and canal views; every room is unique. Prinsengracht 315-331
Restaurants in Amsterdam
BRIDGES, INSPIRED BY RON BLAAUW Located in The Grand Amsterdam Hotel, this Michelin-starred restaurant is known for inventive seafood and a well-regarded afternoon tea. The Grand Amsterdam Hotel, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197
CAFÉ HOPPE Once a jenever distillery, this historic brown café serves Amsterdam specialties like beef croquettes and remains a popular local gathering spot. Spuistraat 18-20
L’INVITÉ A cozy, farm-to-table bistro in a Jordaan canal house offering casual elegance with French-influenced dishes. Bloemgracht 47