There are 30,165 Japanese restaurants in the United States, yet only a handful present authentic kaiseki cuisine. One of New York City’s newest kaiseki venues opened in midtown Manhattan in 2021: the intimate, 20-seat Kaiseki Room by Yamada, which serves an eight- or 10-course tasting menu rooted in traditional kaiseki techniques.
© Max Flatow
Kaiseki is often mistaken for omakase, but the two are distinct. As food writer Angela Sibal explains, omakase is an ad-libbed chef-led experience that typically unfolds at the sushi bar with courses selected in response to what’s freshest and the diner’s reactions. By contrast, kaiseki is a highly structured, formal multicourse meal celebrated as Japan’s finest form of fine dining.
A traditional kaiseki meal usually comprises nine to 12 courses with a defined progression: sakizuke (an amuse-bouche), hassun (a seasonal course), suimono (clear soup), tsukuri (sashimi), yakimono (grilled dish), takiawase (simmered dish), shokuji (rice course), and mizugashi or mizumono (sweets or fruit). Each course highlights seasonality, balance, and refined presentation.
© Joanna Tricorache
Kaiseki is deeply associated with Kyoto, and Chef Yamada trained at the Kyoto location of Kitcho, one of Japan’s most renowned kaiseki counters. He also worked with New York chef David Bouley. That pedigree informs the precision and restraint evident in his cooking and plating at The Kaiseki Room.
Yamada offers a 10-course, hyper-seasonal kaiseki experience that follows the classic progression. Dishes are executed with meticulous technique and attention to seasonal color and texture. Sample courses have included a chilled kabocha pumpkin soup with pink spider crab and caviar; steamed abalone in foie gras dashi; seasonal sashimi; Japanese rosy seabass with Hokkaido uni; Wagyu finished with Jidori egg and soy; donabe pot rice; Okinawan black sugar pudding with ginger Earl Grey ice cream; and matcha. A flourless chocolate cake sometimes appears as an additional finish.
© Joanna Tricorache
Many items on the menu may be unfamiliar to American diners, but the staff at The Kaiseki Room take care to explain each course. Service, presentation and ingredient freshness are held to exacting standards. Tucked between West 53rd and 54th streets along the narrow stretch known as 6½ Avenue, the restaurant’s light maple interior and restrained design evoke a Kyoto counter despite its Midtown location.
The Kaiseki Room by Yamada offers limited nightly seatings and requires reservations; punctuality is important. Seating times are 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and 5:30 p.m. and 8:15 p.m. on Tuesday through Thursday. The Chef Counter Experience (10 courses) is priced at $300 per person, while the Table Experience (eight courses) is $200.