The Algarve is widely known for its golf courses, but my visit focused on beaches, cafés, castles, history and pottery — and I found them all in abundance.
With more than 3,000 hours of sunshine each year, Portugal’s southernmost region has long been a favorite for European travelers and is increasingly popular with North Americans seeking sun, culture and relaxed coastal living.
Spanning from Vila Real de Santo António on the Guadiana River in the east to Cape St. Vincent on the Atlantic in the west, the Algarve covers about 2,090 square miles. The region is long and narrow, stretching nearly 100 miles east to west and measuring less than 25 miles at its widest point north to south.
The Algarve’s mild Mediterranean climate — warm, dry summers and moderate winters — makes it attractive year-round. Summer brings large numbers of visitors (seasonal population surges from roughly 400,000 residents to well over a million), while spring and fall offer sunny days, fewer crowds and gentler temperatures that many travelers prefer.
My trip in early May provided ideal weather for sunbathing on beaches and dramatic clifftop viewpoints, exploring historic towns and enjoying Portuguese wine as the sun set over the Atlantic.
I arrived in Faro after an overnight flight with a long Lisbon layover. Lisbon Portela Airport can be confusing for first-time visitors: signage is limited and the domestic terminal is located in a separate building. After clearing customs I wandered the lobby until a helpful vendor pointed me upstairs and out to a small bus stop that carries passengers to the domestic terminal. That minor misadventure proved common — even locals and travel professionals occasionally miss the separate domestic terminal — so allow extra time if making a connection through Lisbon.
Faro International Airport itself is straightforward, with rental car services conveniently located. Within minutes of landing I was on the A22 motorway heading west toward Porches. Completed in 2003, the A22 replaced the slower EN125 as the primary east-west route, cutting travel times dramatically and making it possible to cross the region efficiently.
There’s a time to speed along the motorway and a time to take the scenic route. I chose efficiency for arrival and saved EN125 for the days ahead.
Porches is a small town often overlooked, a short drive south of the historic Silves and near Armação de Pêra. Both towns began as seafaring villages, but they followed different modern paths: Porches preserved much of its character while embracing tourism, whereas Armação de Pêra underwent rapid development that introduced high-rise hotels and a pronounced tourist infrastructure.
I stayed at Vila Vita Parc, a 5-star resort perched on cliffs above the Atlantic. From the hotel’s cliff-top paths I enjoyed quiet ocean views until a bend in the trail revealed a distant concentration of high-rises — a reminder of how tourism has reshaped parts of the coastline. Local staff, including José Vila-Nova, put that transformation into context as the result of decisions made decades ago to develop certain coastal towns into major resort centers.
Historically the Algarve has been a crossroads of civilizations. Phoenicians, Romans and Moors all left their mark, and the region was a launch point for the 15th-century explorations led by Henry the Navigator. Moorish influence remains especially visible in architecture: whitewashed houses, tiled roofs and distinctive chimneys that echo minaret forms.
Silves, a short drive north of Porches, showcases that layered heritage. Evidence suggests settlement in the area dates back to 1000 B.C., and the town flourished during the Moorish period in the 11th century. Today visitors wander narrow cobblestone streets uphill toward the restored ruins of the Moorish castle, which now includes visitor signage, a café and informational displays. Nearby attractions include a 13th-century cathedral, an archaeological museum with artifacts reaching back to the Stone Age, and the Ponte Romana, a bridge rebuilt in the 15th century on Roman foundations. Strolling through Silves, visitors encounter shops and outdoor cafés ideal for a pause and a cold drink.
To experience a contrasting landscape, drive inland to Monchique in the Serra de Monchique, nestled between the peaks Foia and Picota. Monchique’s quiet village center and narrow lanes offer a break from beach life. Winding roads to the town provide panoramic views of the coast and countryside, and a climb to the 17th-century Franciscan monastery above the town rewards visitors with sweeping vistas — on clear days you can see all the way to the shoreline.
Lodging
Hilton Vilamoura As Cascatas Golf Resort & Spa
About a 20-minute drive from Faro International Airport, this resort features expansive pools with cascading waterfalls and proximity to Pinhal Golf Course. Rua da Torre d Agua Lote 4.11.1B, Vilamoura, tel 351 289 304000, $$$$
Sheraton Algarve Hotel
Designed with Moorish-inspired architecture across 72 cliff-top acres, the hotel resembles an Algarve village with ocean views, multiple restaurants, three pools and tennis courts. Praia da Falesia, Albufeira 8200-909, tel 351 289 500100, $$$-$$$$
Vila Vita Parc
This 5-star seaside retreat offers well-appointed rooms, suites and villas, fine dining, a spa, several pools and a secluded beach grotto. P-8400-450 Porches, tel 351 282 310100, $$$$
Dining
Arte Náutica
This beachfront shack delivers fresh seafood and authentic Portuguese dishes; request deck seating in warm weather. Armação de Pêra Beach, Armação de Pêra, tel 351 282 314875 $$–$$$$
Caniço
Accessed by an elevator from the clifftop to a cove-side dining room, Caniço serves Portuguese-influenced Mediterranean cuisine from March to November. Praia dos Três Irmãos, Alvor 8500-072, tel 351 282 458503, $$-$$$
Porches Velho
Set in a 200-year-old wine cellar, this restaurant preserves Portuguese traditions with classic dishes and fado performances on Friday nights. Rua da Praça 8400-477, Porches-Lagoa, tel 351 282 381692, $$–$$$