Having a mild case of acrophobia, I decided a visit to Tianjin — Northern China’s largest coastal city near Beijing — might help me confront my fear of heights in a positive way.
Nicknamed the “Pearl of the Bohai” for its proximity to the Bohai Sea, Tianjin offers both natural and manmade vantage points atop a land area slightly larger than Los Angeles. I brought my partner along for support. After a short business stop in Beijing, we took the 30-minute high-speed train to Tianjin. Emerging from the morning haze at the train station, we set off with a guidebook and map to explore the city’s striking mix of old and new high points.
Our first stop was an unusual sight: a Ferris wheel built on a bridge. The Yongle Bridge crosses the Haihe River, the city’s lifeline, and the observation wheel that crowns the bridge is known as the Tianjin Eye. Enclosed red gondolas rose to the equivalent height of about 35 stories, delivering broad views over the salt-flat coast and the sprawling metropolis.
Perched above traffic and freeway ramps, the wheel offered a slightly unnerving yet exhilarating perspective. Below us, cars threaded through a landscape of modern high-rises and older Chinese neighborhoods, illustrating Tianjin’s dramatic contrasts in a single panorama.
Tianjin has been at the forefront of sustainable urban planning as the site of the Sino-Singapore Tianjin Eco-City, a collaboration between China and Singapore that serves as a national model for green development. Historic districts that reflect 600 years of cultural interchange sit alongside 20th-century foreign architecture and rapidly rising urban centers dominated by towers and mixed-use developments.
Our route took us to the Tianjin Economic-Technological Development Area (TEDA) in the Binhai District, about 40 minutes from downtown. There we saw TEDA Citizen Plaza, a striking glass pyramid complex designed by Arthur Erickson. The multipurpose building houses shops, galleries and an upscale hotel, its modern form standing out in the international community that grows around TEDA.
In the redeveloped Heping District, Riverside 66 Hang Lung Plaza brought to mind a futuristic cityscape. Designed by James von Klemperer, the seven-story, whale-shaped glass building sits along the Haihe River and features a sunlit atrium in a pre-certified LEED Gold shopping center, blending dramatic architecture with sustainable design.
Tianjin Radio and Television Tower © Moelo | Dreamstime.com
Feeling steadier with heights, we visited the Tianjin Radio and Television Tower in the Hexi District. Although completed in 1991, this needle-like structure remains one of the tallest freestanding towers in the world. A swift elevator ride took us to the observation pod, where, on a clear afternoon, we could spot the Tianjin Zoo and nearby Olympic parks. The revolving restaurant was busy, so we opted for simple street food after descending back to ground level.
To understand Tianjin’s past, we spent time at the Tianjin Museum in Galaxy Square. The museum’s swan-inspired facade, designed by Mamoru Kawaguchi, houses more than 200,000 artifacts, including calligraphy, ceramics and Ming and Qing paintings. Exhibits dedicated to historical photographs, industrial equipment and maritime relics trace the city’s development as a coastal hub and placed the modern skyline into clearer historical context.
Determined to continue my efforts against fear, I visited Tianhou Palace in the Nankai District, also known as the Palace of the Queen of Heaven. Built during the Yuan Dynasty, it is one of the city’s oldest surviving structures. Massive warrior statues guard the entrance, and devotees burn incense and pray to Mazu, the sea goddess who once protected sailors and fishermen. I made a quick offering, lit incense, and asked for strength as we prepared for our final excursion: Huangya Pass, the so-called “Yellow Cliff Pass.”
The following morning, after a 90-minute taxi ride, we reached Huangya Pass, often compared to a smaller Great Wall because of its watchtowers and fortress-like features. Restored in the 1980s, the wall follows a mountain ridge with steep, polished stone steps and well-maintained paths. Unlike the crowds at some more famous sections of the Great Wall, Huangya offered quiet solitude. Surrounded by a green carpet of trees and grasses, we followed the wall as it crested ridge after ridge — a scene that brought to mind the dragon imagery so prominent in Chinese culture.
Huangya Fortress and Great Wall, offering a bird’s-eye view of the city © Yanxiaodong | Dreamstime.com
On that ridgeline, with the wind and the long stone wall stretching away, my fear of heights faded. It was a quiet, satisfying end to our exploration.
Tianjin Info to Go
The high-speed train from Beijing to Tianjin takes about 30 minutes and is affordable; trains run frequently throughout the day. Taxis in downtown Tianjin are inexpensive for short trips, though fares increase with distance; rides from the Binhai District to central locations can be considerably more expensive. The metro is the most efficient way to navigate the city: frequent, well-mapped and cost-effective, with announcements in Mandarin and English.
Where to Stay in Tianjin
The Astor Hotel Tianjin A restored classic that dates back to the 19th century, centrally located in the financial district. 33 Taier Zhuang Road, Heping District
Hotel Indigo Tianjin Haihe A boutique hotel on the former German consulate grounds, offering modern amenities and an elegant historic setting. 314 Jiefang South Road, Hexi District
Pan Pacific Tianjin A riverside luxury hotel near commercial districts, with contemporary suites and convenient location. 1 Zhang Zi Zhong Road, Hong Qiao District
Restaurants in Tianjin
Bai Yun A fine-dining riverside restaurant blending Cantonese and Tianjin flavors in a refined setting. Banyan Tree Tianjin Riverside, 34 Haihe E. Road, Hebei District
Din Tai Fung A popular dumpling house known for xiaolongbao and other steamed specialties. 18 Binshui Road, Hexi District
Dublin Irish Pub A casual spot serving familiar pub fare and international dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. 52 Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping District