Gazing down upon Chester from the broad red sandstone walls that encircle the city, I feel a small twinge of irritation. My husband, James, who’s joined me on the two-mile wall walk, wears the same look of quiet disbelief. I can guess his thought before he speaks: our modest garden wall, rebuilt a few summers ago, is already crumbling at the edges, yet this Roman-built fortification beneath our feet shows scarcely any sign of wear despite two millennia of exposure.
Our cheerful guide seems oblivious to our private musings. She gestures toward the spot where Charles I once stood to watch the Battle of Rowton Moor below, then leads us to Eastgate and its ornate metalwork tower and famous clock. She explains that the Victorian-era, four-faced clock—added to mark Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee—once had its hands brazenly stolen by a daring thief.
Chester’s claim to fame as Britain’s most complete surviving fortified, walled city is well earned, but the town offers more than just impressively stacked stone. After finishing the wall circuit, we visit the Roman amphitheatre, the largest in the country. It once hosted entertainment and served as a training ground for soldiers. Much of the structure remains unexcavated, and archaeologists working on the site suspect that, grand as it is, the amphitheatre may have been in active use for only a relatively short time.
At Chester Cathedral we climb the 200 steps of the Cathedral at Height Tour to reach the bell tower and enjoy expansive views over the city and into nearby Wales. Later we take tea at The Chester Grosvenor, where the long-standing British ritual of afternoon tea is refined to an art. Having planned a light supper, we selected the Decadent Champagne Afternoon Tea and arrive ready to indulge.
Alongside expertly brewed tea, fruit scones and delicate finger sandwiches, our tea includes a half-bottle of Taittinger Nocturne Sec, sweet English strawberries with clotted cream, and an assortment of pastries and colorfully iced “fancies.” The timing proves perfect: the tours earlier in the day mean the inevitable sugar rush is followed by a strong desire for a long, post-tea nap.
The Rows shops © ABSENTE | DREAMSTIME.COM
The next day we set aside for browsing and a river cruise, beginning with The Rows: a line of two-storey, galleried shops that dates back to medieval times. While original customers likely visited cobblers, weavers and ironsmiths, I’m hunting for my favorite scent from the historic London perfumers Penhaligon’s, and James is searching for gloves at menswear tailor Gieves & Hawkes, holders of a Royal Warrant.
With purchases in hand, we board The Lady Diana, one of the luxury showboats run by ChesterBoat, for a leisurely cruise down the River Dee. We settle on the enclosed upper deck with a glass of wine as the urban scene gives way to manicured gardens and the long, flowering stretch known as The Meadows.
On our final day we visit Cholmondeley Castle Gardens, a short drive outside the city. The castle itself was rebuilt as a Gothic villa in 1801 by the 4th Earl of Cholmondeley, but it’s the gardens—spread across 50 acres and refined by successive generations—that draw us. Paths lead through terraced areas devoted to roses, lavender and formal plantings, while the Silver Garden showcases foliage with a silvery sheen. We especially enjoy the Temple Garden and a winding track through a laburnum grove that opens onto the peaceful Duckery water garden, complete with a romantic English folly.
Strolling the gardens inevitably sparks thoughts of our own sadly tilting wall at home, and we reach a solemn conclusion: it must be fixed. Back home our to-do list will include finding a landscaper who’s worked on castles—or, jokingly, one who can prove Roman ancestry.
Chester Info to Go
Chester is accessible via Manchester (MAN) or Liverpool John Lennon (LPL) international airports, each roughly 40–45 minutes away. Regional train services connect daily to and from Manchester Airport’s station, with taxis and 24-hour bus service available from the arrivals area. From Liverpool John Lennon Airport there is no direct train, but buses and taxis link to Liverpool’s main station where connections to Chester can be made. Major rental car companies operate at both airports.
Where to Stay in Chester
THE CHESTER GROSVENOR Chester’s only five-star hotel, offering traditional British elegance, Champagne teas and a full spa with a thermal suite. Located in the city centre beside the Eastgate Clock. 56-58 Eastgate St. $$$$$
EDGAR HOUSE A restored Georgian home turned luxurious five-star B&B, perched atop the City Walls with views over the River Dee; named Best Small Hotel in the World by TripAdvisor. 22 City Walls. $$$$
ODDFELLOWS A classical Georgian building with high standards and a quirky history—formerly Oddfellows Hall. Rooms range from those with freestanding roll-top baths to views over a secluded garden. Close to the river. 20 Lower Bridge St. $$$$
Restaurants in Chester
SIMON RADLEY AT THE CHESTER GROSVENOR Michelin-starred since 1990, this elegant restaurant offers an extensive wine list and dishes that feature locally inspired ingredients such as heritage potatoes, Crown Prince pumpkin and jammy figs. The Chester Grosvenor, 56-58 Eastgate St. $$$$$
STICKY WALNUT Rustic, comforting fare with dishes such as wild garlic tagliatelle and honeycomb ice cream. Located in Hoole, on Chester’s outskirts; open for lunch and dinner. 11 Charles St. $$$
THE YARD Contemporary Italian favorites in a stylish setting; the lower-level Boardroom provides private dining. 26 City Road. $$$$