“How much?”
It’s a question that can quickly spoil the romance of an evening out. We were celebrating a milestone and asked the concierge at our Helsinki hotel for a restaurant suggestion.
“It must be Ravintola Savoy,” she said, picking up the phone. “Let me make the reservation.”
“We’d like to see the menu first.”
She set the phone down and brought up Savoy’s menu on her tablet. We scanned the enticing selections but soon found ourselves focused more on the prices than the dishes. Starters from €30–€35. Main courses from €50–€60. Desserts around €20–€25. Wine lists where most bottles sat well over €80. Even the after-dinner cheese plate had a notable price tag.
What is one to do? On special occasions, splurging feels appropriate, yet when I tallied the likely cost I realized the meal could equal a weekend in Paris. Finland’s reputation for being expensive felt justified that night.
Fortunately, one smart purchase kept our trip sensible. For €58 each (about $79), we bought 72-hour Helsinki Cards. They gave us unlimited use of public transport—buses, trams, trains and ferries—plus free or reduced admission to many top attractions. That single decision let us reserve our budget for indulgences like a memorable dinner without wrecking the rest of the trip.
After handling my work commitments the first morning, our day opened up by mid-morning. On a recommendation from a local contact, my wife and I headed to the fish market plaza. The market stalls were selling crafts rather than fish that bright morning. We flashed our Helsinki Cards and boarded the ferry for the 15-minute ride to Suomenlinna.
We were bound for a UNESCO World Heritage site, but the short voyage was part of the appeal. It’s the same crossing Michael Caine took as Harry Palmer in the 1967 film Billion Dollar Brain. Where Caine saw icy harbor floes, we enjoyed late-summer sunshine as Helsinki receded in the distance. The golden onion domes of Uspenski Cathedral hinted at Finland’s place between East and West and the city’s layered history of intrigue.
Suomenlinna underlined Helsinki’s strategic importance. The fortress spans a cluster of islands at the harbor entrance, originally built by the Swedes in the 18th century and substantially upgraded during over a century of Russian rule. When Finland declared independence in 1917, Suomenlinna became a potent national symbol.
The ferry moored and we disembarked with dozens of other visitors. Calling Suomenlinna merely a fortress undersells it. Behind heavy battlements are charming houses, museums and military structures, but it’s also a living neighborhood home to more than 900 residents—effectively an island suburb of Helsinki.
We stocked up at the island supermarket and set up a picnic on the southern ramparts, overlooking a narrow channel. Halfway through our sandwiches, alarmed, we watched a large ferry depart Helsinki and head straight for the channel. The passage looked impossibly tight.
To our relief—and amazement—the ferry glided through at speed with only inches to spare. Passengers on deck waved; we waved back. The maneuver is a customary shortcut for ferries traveling between Helsinki and Tallinn. A few days later, aboard a ferry to Estonia, we watched the channel pass from the ship’s rails and found it even more dramatic.
Back in the city after lunch, Helsinki presented itself as an intimate capital rather than a sprawling metropolis. The low-rise skyline is dominated by the white-colonnaded Lutheran Cathedral with its green dome, which sits prominently above Senate Square. We kept returning to the square and often joined locals sitting on the cathedral steps at dusk to watch city life unfold.
In June 2014 the Finnair SkyWheel added a new vertical accent to the harborfront. The 86-meter Ferris wheel offers panoramic views of downtown Helsinki; a rotation costs €10 with a Helsinki Card or €12 without.
On foot we enjoyed the Design District’s compact streets. Downloadable maps guide visitors through architectural highlights and the best shops for fashion and design, along with themed routes such as a “Manly Shopping Tour.” We also visited the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art for cutting-edge installations and the Ateneum for the definitive collection of Finnish art.
One standout example of Finnish design is the Temppeliaukio Rock Church. Carved directly into solid bedrock and capped by a rippling copper roof, the church’s vertically slatted windows and striking interior create an unforgettable atmosphere.
Late on our final afternoon we wandered to the Esplanadi, the tree-lined park stretching from the market plaza. In front of the 19th-century Cafe Kappeli a big band played jazz standards. Couples stood arm in arm; some sang along, some danced. It was a reminder that some experiences—romance foremost among them—can’t be measured in euros.
Helsinki Info to Go
International flights arrive at Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, about 18 kilometers north of the city center. A rail link was scheduled to open in mid-2015; until then, the Finnair City Bus runs between the airport and the central railway station roughly every 20 minutes, taking about 30 minutes. Many top hotels are within easy walking distance of the station. The one-way bus fare is €6.30, or €4 with a Helsinki Card. Expect to pay significantly more by taxi.
Where to Stay in Helsinki
GLO Hotel Kluuvi Located in the historic center with a lively design, the hotel offers newly expanded rooms and shares a spa with the neighboring Hotel Kämp. Kluuvikatu 4. $$$
Hotel Kämp Helsinki’s classic luxury hotel, hosting notable guests for more than a century. Timeless, elegant rooms close to the city’s main sights. Kluuvikatu 2. $$$$
Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Helsinki Set on the scenic Gulf of Finland, this modern hotel offers comfortable rooms, complimentary Wi‑Fi and easy access to waterfront attractions. Ruoholahdenranta 3. $$$
Restaurants in Helsinki
Ravintola Savoy Partially designed by Alvar Aalto, Savoy is a longstanding choice for special occasions. Eteläesplanadi 14. $$$$
Restaurant Demo A Michelin-starred dining experience with a relaxed atmosphere and inventive tasting menus. Uudenmaankatu 9–11. $$$$
Wrong Asian Kitchen A lively option for flavorful Asian dishes without a high price tag. Yliopistonkatu 5. $$
Read more about Finnish culture.