It wasn’t even cold in Moscow when I returned to the Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow that evening. The temperature lingered just below 70 degrees Fahrenheit as the sun slipped behind the cathedral domes and the Kremlin, casting the city in a warm crimson glow.
I had spent two weeks exploring Russia with Travel All Russia, enjoying behind-the-scenes access to St. Petersburg’s museums and riding the Sapsan high-speed train back to Moscow. But now I was alone in the capital, ready to continue my solo adventure — and to experience one of the most talked-about Russian traditions: the banya.
Throughout my trip I had heard enthusiastic endorsements of the banya’s health benefits. “It will detoxify your body inside and out,” one guide said. “It takes years off your complexion,” a cosmopolitan local promised. “It leaves your skin as smooth as stone,” another added, and a passerby joked, “The whipping with branches doesn’t hurt that bad.” Intrigued and a little curious, I booked a two-hour treatment at the spa inside the Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow to see what it was all about.
At the hotel entrance two doormen greeted me, and I was welcomed with cold towels and a refreshing drink by two elegant Russian women. Though the property carries American branding, it is owned by an Armenian-Russian family, and the décor blends Russian opulence with refined Armenian touches throughout.
My bellman walked me through the lobby toward my room, pointing out highlights like the ninth-floor chapel and the panoramic views from the rooftop bar. When I mentioned the banya appointment, he gave a knowing smirk and asked, “Do you know what banya is, madame?”
“Not even in the slightest,” I admitted.
“Ah, then you’re in for a true Russian experience,” he replied as he opened the door to my deluxe room with a view of the Bolshoi Theatre.
I left my bag and took a moment to look down at the busy streets before heading to the Quantum Spa & Health Club to begin the experience.
Quantum Spa banya © ARARAT PARK HYATT
MOSCOW
The Russian banya resembles other communal bath traditions like the Turkish sauna or the hammam, but it has its own distinct temperatures, humidity levels and rituals. Many Russian country houses, or dachas, have freestanding banyas made of wood, with a small tea room and a sauna heated by a furnace capable of exceeding 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Historically the banya serves as a social ritual: friends relax, chat and detox in the heat before sharing a meal. Traditionally men and women bathe separately, though in some regions it has evolved into a family activity.
In Moscow the banya has been reimagined as a private wellness experience. My private banya room at the spa was softly lit and appointed with a corner sofa, a table set with tea and homemade cookies, a wooden sauna, an expansive rain shower and a narrow plunge pool with a black bottom filled with icy water. My therapist explained the essentials, beginning with the felt sauna hat: bell-shaped and designed to shield the head from intense heat and prevent dizziness or headaches. Following her instructions, I disrobed and entered the sauna wearing only the felt cap.
The ritual unfolded in three stages. First I spent ten minutes in the sauna to warm up, then jumped into the plunge pool and moved to the massage table for a detoxifying sugar scrub and massage in the main room. After a return to the sauna for fifteen minutes, my therapist left me to shower and sip mint tea in the quiet privacy of the room. When she returned, she guided me back into the sauna to apply a honey mask, then gently patted my skin with soft eucalyptus branches to help release toxins. Another shower and a calm moment with tea followed, and she completed the treatment with a soothing eucalyptus soap massage.
Afterward she placed a fresh cup of tea on the table and left me to relax for the remainder of my time. I felt thoroughly cleansed and relaxed; my skin appeared glowing and smoother, and the branch whipping — far from painful — was actually invigorating. The local praise I’d heard proved to be well founded.
Bolstered by the positive experience and curious to follow my bellman’s recommendation, I changed in the locker room and made my way to the hotel’s rooftop terrace to enjoy the panoramic view at sunset.
QUANTUM SPA & HEALTH CLUB
Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow
4 Neglinnaya St.
Moscow, Russia 125009
tel 7 495 783 1234
moscow.park.hyatt.com