The door opened from the street into a cozy room with exposed brick walls and a low wooden ceiling. Behind the bar, white-bearded Pol Rysenaer poured his flavored jenevers — a potent, juniper-based spirit similar to gin. Each small glass was filled just above the rim so the proper way to lift it without spilling was to lean down to the bar and sip until the drink matched the rim. I discovered this place, ‘t Dreupelkot, where Pol has been serving citron, raspberry, mango and more than 200 other flavored jenevers for 28 years, while wandering the cobbled streets of historic Ghent.
About a half-hour train ride from Brussels, Ghent feels like a large village with a medieval heart. Its Flemish architecture is remarkably well preserved, so stepping into the historic center feels like stepping back centuries. The streets themselves are narrow, but the central square, Kouter, is a broad, car-free plaza. Car-free does not mean traffic-free, however — you’ll need to watch for the many bicycles that thread through the city.
Walking is the best way to experience Ghent. Nearly everything of interest sits within comfortable walking distance, and moving on foot reveals details you might otherwise miss. To add another perspective, take a boat on the canals: Ghent is crossed by waterways and served by several boating companies. A quiet canal cruise floats past some of the city’s oldest buildings and offers angles you can’t see from the street.
For a town of its size, Ghent offers a rich museum scene, with collections that span art, history and science. With limited time, I chose the Design Museum Gent, drawn by its outstanding collection of Art Nouveau glass. For a single must-see religious site, visit St. Bavo’s Cathedral, home to The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, the extraordinary 20-panel altarpiece painted by the Van Eyck brothers in the early 1400s.
And the food scene deserves attention. If you can manage only one memorable meal, reserve a table at Allegro Moderato. Housed in an 18th-century guild house, the restaurant presents contemporary Belgian-French cuisine that is thoughtfully prepared, beautifully presented and consistently delicious. I would return to Ghent for another dinner at Allegro Moderato without hesitation.
Most of all, though, I’d return for one more sip of Pol’s passion fruit jenevers — the sort of small, memorable detail that stays with you after a short visit to this atmospheric city.