Swimming through one of Mexico’s dimly lit underground rivers, a line from Antonio Carlos Jobim’s “Waters of March” drifts through my mind: “…and the riverbank talks of the waters of March, it’s the end of all strain, it’s the joy in your heart.” Jobim wrote the song about Brazil, but the feeling fits perfectly here — this water soothes tired muscles after an active family vacation in Cancún.
Although Cancún is easily accessible from the United States, my family usually chooses more exotic destinations. On this trip, though, we discover a surprising mix of adventures, a wide range of accommodations and a lively dining scene. It’s clear why visitors have been flocking here for decades: beyond short flights and great guacamole, Cancún delivers memorable experiences.
Before the late 1960s, Cancún was a scattering of small villages and coconut farms. Today the hotel zone bustles with tourists enjoying ziplining, rappelling, archaeological sites and long stretches of white sand. Everyone talks about the Caribbean Sea’s brilliant shades of blue — I was skeptical until I saw it for myself. The water truly is as mesmerizing as the hype suggests.
Reluctant to leave the beach, we still set out to explore. My daughter skips the zipline, but we all agree on one popular activity: swimming with dolphins.
We take a mid-morning ferry to Isla Mujeres, roughly a 20-minute ride less than 10 miles off the coast. Calm seas made the trip comfortable, which is a relief for anyone prone to seasickness.
Mayan lore says the goddess Ixchel blessed Isla Mujeres, and when Spanish explorers arrived in the 1500s they found female-shaped idols on the shore, naming it the Island of Women. Today it’s a charming destination where visitors rent bicycles or golf carts, snorkel among reefs, or visit Garrafon National Reef Park.
Our stop on Isla Mujeres is Dolphin Discovery Beach Club. The package includes lunch, drinks, towels, lockers and a one-hour dolphin swim. We choose the Royal Swim, which features a dolphin handshake, hug, kiss and hand touch — plus the thrilling dorsal tow and foot push.
My brave eight-year-old volunteers for the dorsal tow first. She paddles into deeper water, stretches her arms wide and holds onto the dolphins’ fins as they tow her back, grins and giggles all the way. I take the foot push. Lying face down with legs extended, I feel a firm shove from the dolphins’ snouts that launches me forward. For a few ecstatic seconds I’m airborne before a less graceful splash brings me back to earth.
Diving at the Cancún Underwater Museum © Nialldunne24 | Dreamstime.com
If dolphins aren’t your thing, Cancún offers plenty: Chichén Itzá and Tulum are within reach, and the Cancún Underwater Museum provides unique snorkeling opportunities. We pace ourselves to include downtime — good meals, spa visits and lazy hours at the hotel pool and beach.
Accommodations in Cancún range from luxury properties like The Ritz-Carlton to sprawling all-inclusive resorts such as Moon Palace. One standout for us is Nizuc Resort & Spa, the first luxury hotel in the Las Brisas collection.
Set on a natural preserve near the airport, Nizuc feels like a private sanctuary. Its beach sits on a protected bay with calm water, unlike many hotel zone beaches. After swimming in the sea and an infinity pool, my daughter heads to Winik’s Kids Club. It’s a pleasant surprise that the kids’ program is included at no extra charge — essentially free childcare while we enjoy other amenities.
A couple of colorful macaws in Xcaret Park © Elena Shirokova | Dreamstime.com
I visit Nizuc’s ESPA spa, the first ESPA-branded spa in Cancún. A spa concierge guides me through a hydrotherapy circuit — steam, cold shower, sauna, an ice room with mist and a vitality pool — before a deeply relaxing massage. It’s the kind of place that makes you plan your next treatment before the current one ends.
The following day we head to Xcaret, an eco-archaeological park south of Cancún created by Miguel Quintana Pali after he discovered ruins, rivers and cenotes amid rich jungle. He opened the park so more people could experience the area’s natural and cultural treasures; this year Xcaret marks 25 years of operation.
Xcaret’s underground river © Enrique Gomez | Dreamstime.com
At Xcaret, my daughter swims with a nurse shark and a stingray, strolls among flamingos and poses with colorful macaws. I find myself floating down an underground river with that Brazilian melody looping in my head.
We float along the Blue River, one of three underground rivers at Xcaret that are part of the world’s largest network of subterranean waterways. These caverns feel timeless, carrying echoes of the ancient Mayans who relied on these waters. Because Xcaret sits close to the sea, its rivers mix fresh and salt water, creating a unique, soothing experience that eases every muscle.
Xcaret’s 200 acres protect habitats for spider monkeys, jaguars, flamingos and tapirs. The park runs conservation programs for macaws and sea turtles, the latter being a long-established and successful effort.
But Xcaret’s real gift is its storytelling. Ritual Mayan ceremonies, pre-Hispanic drum and dance performances, equestrian displays and the evening Espectacular weave together Mexico’s history, music and traditions into a moving show. Despite a long day of walking, we’re captivated. Watching the audience sing and chant with pride, I feel a surprising swell of emotion and join in the chorus of “¡Viva México!”
Cancún Info to Go
Cancún International Airport (CUN) is typically a 15- to 30-minute drive to the hotel zone depending on your hotel. Check with your hotel about shuttle service and consider arranging your return taxi through the hotel concierge.
Where to Stay in Cancún
Moon Palace Golf & Spa Resort One of Cancún’s large all-inclusive resorts, Moon Palace offers many dining options and numerous amenities. Carretera Cancun-Chetumal Km. 340
Nizuc Resort & Spa Located at Punta Nizuc, this contemporary resort is ideal for a more private beachfront escape. Blvd. Kukulkan Km 21.26
The Ritz-Carlton, Cancún An award-winning seaside property known for its luxury service and dining. Retorno del Rey 36, Zona Hotelera
Restaurants in Cancún
Fantino A Mediterranean-inspired restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, recognized for its refined cuisine. Retorno del Rey 36, Zona Hotelera
La Habichuela Sunset A seafood-focused restaurant with two locations; the hotel zone site often features a Mayan dance show on weekends. Blvd. Kukulcan Km 12.6, Zona Hotelera
Ramona An upscale restaurant at Nizuc serving traditional Mexican dishes with a modern touch. Nizuc Resort & Spa, Blvd. Kukulkan Km 21.26