From the private rooftop spa terrace of Lady’s First Design Hotel, Zürich unfolds into a panorama of mountain peaks, church steeples and glowing clock towers. It’s after 10 p.m. and the cool evening air brushes my skin, still warm from a session in the spa’s aromatic steam bath. The elegant 19th-century building below was sensitively renovated by Swiss architect Pia Schmid, who treats construction and composition as a visual language. Her design honors historical details such as restored parquet floors while introducing generous natural light, bold color accents and a varied mix of surfaces and textures. Each of the 28 guestrooms includes a Swissflex bed, electric kettle, complimentary Wi‑Fi and windows that open wide to admit fresh, lake-sweetened air.
When the hotel first opened a decade ago, it catered exclusively to women. Today all genders are welcome, but many features remain tailored for female travelers: full-sized hairdryers, soft robes and slippers, a ladies-only fourth floor with women’s rooms and spa facilities, and exclusive access to the fifth-floor relaxation and therapy rooms. At the top of this women-only zone is the rooftop terrace, reached via a staircase and a glass skylight that opens onto a calm planted area with small tables and comfortable loungers.
My room sits just steps from the wellness entrance. An attendant oversees tea service and towels, while local masseuses attend by appointment. The spa menu is refreshingly eclectic: alongside a classic Ayurvedic massage with warm scented oils, choices include Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Nui, reflexology and a salt-and-sea-algae exfoliation. The list extends to themed packages and cosmetic treatments—facials, waxing, brow shaping, body peels, cellulite therapy, manicures and pedicures.
I choose the signature hour-long Lady’s Massage. Rather than pouring oil onto the skin, the therapist uses heated pouches of fragrant herbs, working them over tense muscles while integrating techniques drawn from Swedish and Asian traditions. The warmth and aroma loosen knots and soothe my shoulders; by the time she comes to the table’s end to knead my scalp, I’m drifting toward sleep.
Next I move to the relaxation room, crossing wood-plank floors to one of the low blue chaise longues arranged in a wide semicircle. A wall of stone in warm terra-cotta tones provides a soft backdrop. Muted light from floor lamps—large, glowing forms that resemble smooth boulders—casts gentle shadows across exposed wooden beams. The atmosphere has a yacht-like calm that suits the hotel’s proximity to Lake Zürich.
Located in the refined Seefeld quarter, just east of the lake, the hotel is easy to reach from the main train station via the efficient tram network. The following morning, after a generous breakfast of eggs cooked to order, freshly baked breads, ripe fruit, creamy Swiss yogurts, juices, meats and cheeses, I hop on a short tram ride to the old city. I detour through Schlüsselgasse to the Truffe chocolate shop, then walk up to the Lindenhof. Sheltered by its linden trees, this small hill—once the site of a Roman fortress—offers quiet benches and wide views over the city.
Tucked in my day bag is a worn copy of Alan Lightman’s novel Einstein’s Dreams, set in Zürich. The book’s meditations on time feel fitting as I spend a restful hour reading beneath the lindens, then stroll to the city dock. Boarding a tour boat, I take a slow cruise around the lake, relaxing on the top deck with an unobstructed view of the colorful shoreline.
Back at the hotel, I slip into my robe for more water therapy. I begin in the light therapy sauna, letting gentle warmth seep into my muscles while hundreds of tiny lights cycle through colors. Next I try the Finnish sauna; its dry heat reaches deeper into any remaining tension. After ten minutes I step into the main wellness space and lower my body temperature under a multi-jet shower. The eucalyptus-scented steam chamber follows: I settle onto a tiled bench, breathe in the fragrant mist and let the clouds relax my lungs. My circuit ends with another cool spray and a walk through the Kneipp stream—a shallow path of rounded pebbles and ankle-deep cold water. The sensation is invigorating, like hundreds of tiny hands massaging the soles of my feet.
I sleep deeply that night. The next morning, before beginning the long journey home, I enjoy breakfast outdoors in the tranquil rose garden. A breeze drifts down from the Alps and slides across the lake, carrying a clarity that makes time feel roomy and unhurried. Inspired by the reflective prose of the novel I’m reading, I suddenly feel ageless. With a nod to Einstein, my stay here reshapes my own sense of time: a simple philosophy that privileges abundant spa time and generous helpings of handmade Swiss chocolate.
Lady’s First Design Hotel
Mainaustrasse 24
CH 8008 Zürich, Switzerland
tel 41 44 380 80 10
www.ladysfirst.ch