Los Cabos: Desert Dunes and Turquoise Sea Escapes

PHOTO: © TIM LEFFEL

One morning began with a generous breakfast overlooking the ocean, where humpback whales sent water spouts into the air as they passed. Later we tackled a challenging Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course. As the sun set, we explored desert dunes and shoreline on ATVs and finished the evening in downtown Cabo San Lucas with margaritas by the marina.

On another day you can pick from dozens of activities — or simply relax on a lounger by the pool or the sea.

Los Cabos offers a spectrum of vacation experiences you can turn up or down. If you prefer total relaxation, check into an all-inclusive resort, dine and drink to your heart’s content, and enjoy the warm oceanfront setting. For adrenaline seekers, the destination supplies enough adventure to fill a week: desert trails, water sports and underwater exploration make this a playground for many types of travelers.

The Los Cabos region includes two main cities and the corridor between them, roughly 1,000 miles south of the U.S. border. Cabo San Lucas sits at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula where the Pacific rounds a corner. San José del Cabo faces the Sea of Cortez on the peninsula’s opposite side. Between them, beaches, golf courses and some of Mexico’s most luxurious resorts line the shoreline.

The meeting of these two bodies of water creates powerful surf, excellent fishing grounds and a marine corridor for whales migrating from the Arctic to calve in warmer waters. The Sea of Cortez side is known for superb snorkeling and diving; Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park makes an easy and rewarding day trip from most hotels. A bit farther north, La Paz is one of the rare places where snorkelers can swim with whale sharks close to shore.

Many beaches in the area are ideal for long walks but can be too rough for casual swimming. Large waves and strong riptides can pull swimmers far offshore, so exercise caution and heed local guidance. A handful of protected bays, including the crescent beach near Cabo San Lucas, offer calmer water for swimming and family-friendly activities.

Wide, open beaches often remain uncrowded, letting visitors ride horses or ATVs with few interruptions. Surfers flock to the consistent swells, and public viewpoints — such as the stretch beside The Cape, a Thompson Hotel at Playa Monumentos — offer great spots to watch riders carve the waves.

PHOTO: © TIM LEFFEL

“In January, you can almost walk on whales,” a guide in San José del Cabo joked when I arrived late in the season. Returning in December I saw early migrants from a boat; another visit in January revealed that the joke contained more truth than hyperbole. From a balcony at an oceanfront hotel I counted dozens of spouts before losing track. Walking the beach I watched stingrays leap and glide in large numbers.

For a memorable local experience, ride a horse along a quiet beach at sunset or traverse sand dunes and cactus-studded desert trails led by an experienced guide. Alternatives include mountain-biking and hiking tours that showcase the region’s rugged landscapes and striking coastal views.

Los Cabos long attracted anglers, artists and writers. Early visitors came for world-class fishing — a tradition that drew Hollywood figures and literary names who enjoyed days on the water followed by lively nights ashore. Before international tourism expanded, many locals worked in commercial fishing, and sportfishing remains an essential draw: deep-sea opportunities begin just offshore, and it’s common to come back with photo-worthy catches within hours of leaving the marina.

Fishing trips still bring many visitors here, often as the main reason to fly in. The proximity of productive offshore grounds makes for efficient, rewarding half- or full-day excursions that suit groups of friends or families.

Los Cabos is widely regarded as Mexico’s golf capital, with courses by celebrated designers throughout the region. Many resorts use desalinated seawater or treated sources for irrigation, so golfers can enjoy dramatic ocean views without as much concern about freshwater use.

PHOTO: © TIM LEFFEL

Luxury hotels in Los Cabos frequently top travel editors’ and readers’ lists. The region hosts multiple AAA Five-Diamond resorts — among the highest concentrations in the Americas outside the Cancun/Riviera Maya corridor. These properties are celebrated for attentive service, elegant rooms and exceptional facilities, especially their spa offerings. Resorts such as Las Ventanas al Paraíso, One&Only Palmilla and Montage Los Cabos present expansive treatment menus and highly trained staff devoted to relaxation and rejuvenation.

For a quieter, cultural side of the destination, downtown San José del Cabo showcases galleries and creative spaces set in restored historic buildings. The town square and Calle Obregón concentrate many galleries, where you’ll find emerging local painters, artisans specializing in Huichol beadwork and established contemporary artists like Mexican sculptor Jorge Marín. From November through June, Thursday night gallery openings encourage a relaxed art walk, with many venues staying open late and occasional guided tours providing added insight. After the walk, wine bars and local breweries, including Baja Brewing, offer a pleasant place to unwind.