I might be taking a risk sharing this. Travel writers often keep one or two favorite places to themselves; if they live in one of those places, all the more reason to stay quiet. Let’s keep this between us.
After visiting more than a hundred countries during three decades of professional travel, I finally chose a place to settle. With the whole world to choose from, I picked the Peak District in the center of England.
If the Peak District isn’t on your radar, you’re not alone. The United Kingdom welcomes more than 30 million visitors each year, most of whom focus on headline attractions: London, Edinburgh, York, Bath and Stonehenge. For many tourists the picture‑perfect countryside only serves as scenery between those destinations.
Protecting 555 square miles of upland and valley, the Peak District National Park sits within easy reach of major industrial cities including Manchester, Birmingham and Sheffield, yet it feels a world away. Footpaths sweep over high rolling moors bordered by rugged stone walls and descend into dales — deep river valleys — that feel remote from the rush of modern life.
PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON
Towns and villages are scattered across the park. One such town, on the southern edge, is Ashbourne. With its cobbled market square, spired church and main street often hung with red, white and blue bunting, Ashbourne is the quintessential English market town — with a twist. It remains one of the last strongholds of a medieval tradition known as Royal Shrovetide Football. For two days at the start of Lent the town divides into two rival teams and the entire town becomes the playing field, the aim being to carry a ball to one of two goals located three miles apart. Thousands take part in this historic event.
For the rest of the year Ashbourne returns to its tranquil pace and serves as a popular gateway to the Peak District. A former rail line heading north from the town has been converted into the 13‑mile Tissington Trail, a flat route perfect for walking and cycling that runs through cuttings, tunnels and over embankments amid dramatic countryside. Bicycles are available to rent in town.
PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON
About four miles from Ashbourne, the village of Tissington has been in the care of the FitzHerbert family since 1465. Their Jacobean manor in the center of the village opens for pre‑booked private tours. Each year the village celebrates well dressing, a centuries‑old Peak District custom in which residents decorate wells with intricate designs made from flower petals and other natural materials to mark Ascension Day.
PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON
The Peak District’s main attraction is its countryside, with hundreds of miles of waymarked footpaths suitable for a range of abilities. One favorite route follows Dovedale, a deep, winding valley cut by the River Dove. At the start, beneath a pyramid‑shaped hill called Thorpe Cloud, walkers cross the river via time‑worn stepping stones. The path continues for about three miles, revealing dramatic rock formations and mysterious caves along the way.
Further north you’ll find Robin Hood’s Stride, a striking rocky outcrop that resembles a ruined castle though it is entirely natural; it was used as a location in the 1987 film The Princess Bride. Nearby stands the Grey Ladies, four upright stones that are remnants of a prehistoric stone circle and a reminder that people have lived in and treasured this landscape for millennia.
Locals have guarded their traditions and territory carefully. Visitors are welcome and will find plenty to explore, but I’ll admit a selfish hope that the Peak District’s quieter corners remain a little under the radar. Come and enjoy it — and please keep its hidden heart to yourself.
LODGING
Biggin Hall Hotel & Restaurant
A 17th‑century house with eight traditional rooms in the main building and 13 more in nearby properties. Ideally situated for country walking and cycling.
Main Street, Biggin‑by‑Hartington, Buxton
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The Devonshire Arms at Pilsley
Part of the Chatsworth Estate, this village pub combines modern comforts with old‑world charm.
High Street, Pilsley, Bakewell
$$$
Wildhive Callow Hall
A Victorian country house set in 35 acres with options to stay in the main house or in secluded wooden treehouses within the grounds.
Mappleton Road, Ashbourne
$$$
DINING
The Blind Bull
A beautifully restored 12th‑century inn offering a modern menu with about 80 percent of ingredients sourced locally.
Little Hucklow, Buxton
$$$
Fischer’s at Baslow Hall
Dine in a refined country manor setting or the kitchen; the menu is contemporary and matched with a considered wine list.
Calver Road, Baslow, Bakewell
$$$$
Machine Inn
Housed in a former bank, this smart Ashbourne restaurant serves modern British dishes overseen by a Gordon Ramsay‑trained chef.
6 St John St., Ashbourne
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INFO TO GO
The closest major international gateway to the Peak District is Manchester Airport (MAN), which has direct flights from several U.S. cities. A rental car is the most convenient way to explore the park, though an extensive bus network links the main towns and villages. From the airport you can also take the Skyline 199 coach to Buxton and connect to local services.