Unlike the room full of eager travelers around me preparing to board a ship bound for the seventh continent, I had never imagined visiting Antarctica. While others shared plans hatched in their 40s, promising loved ones they’d mail postcards from an Antarctic post office or bravely join a polar plunge, I stayed quiet, embarrassed to admit the continent had never even been on my bucket list.
That omission wasn’t from a lack of curiosity or fear of the unknown; it was because I considered Antarctica unreachable. In my mind it was the ultimate trip—reserved for scientists or celebrities. But as I researched ideas for my 32nd birthday, the idea of going south began to feel achievable.
Antarctica has become more accessible in recent years. A 2016 report by the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators notes that more than 38,000 people visited during the austral summer (typically November through February), and the total has been expected to grow annually. Most travelers arrive by ship via cruise operators or expedition specialists, though plane daytrips and fly/cruise hybrids are increasingly available.
Many assume a trip to Antarctica will be prohibitively expensive, logistically impossible or too risky. In fact, options vary widely in price and duration, and many first-time visitors find the journey far less intimidating than they anticipated. The experience of setting foot on a place largely untouched by people is a powerful draw.
“I’ve been to the Antarctic region twice and would definitely return,” says Mary Curry, voyage product director at Adventure Life and a mother of four. “It’s challenging in our modern world to feel like a true explorer, and there’s something very special about seeing a place that is relatively untouched by human hands. Antarctica still offers that. I have yet to see Salisbury Plain on South Georgia Island—a wildlife mecca with tens of thousands of king penguins and elephant seals. Most people think of Antarctica and penguins synonymously, but the giant king penguin colonies are more characteristic of sub-Antarctic islands.”
Only expedition vessels with fewer than 500 passengers are allowed to land on the continent, which helps protect the environment and creates a more intimate adventure. I was lucky to book a cabin on a 118-passenger vessel, which meant I would be able to step ashore and experience wildlife and raw terrain up close.
Our journey began in Ushuaia, Argentina—nicknamed “El Fin del Mundo,” or “The End of the World.” It took two days to cross the Drake Passage and reach Antarctic waters. The Drake Passage has a fearsome reputation—the so-called “Drake Shake”—and deters many would-be travelers. It is the stretch between South America and the South Shetland Islands and is known as one of the roughest bodies of water in the world. On calm days it can feel like sailing across a large lake; when it’s rough, motion-sickness medication or patches are wise precautions.
Penguins © KRISTY ALPERT
When Antarctica finally came into view, I felt a swell of excitement and disbelief. I had questioned whether this trip was truly possible, and with my 32nd birthday two days away, I wondered if I would reach the milestone having stood on all seven continents. The next morning I rose early to join the first wave of Zodiac landings, bundled in every layer I had packed and wearing a bright red parka and rubber boots supplied by the expedition.
We cruised past leopard seals, skirted around the spouts of curious humpback whales and threaded our way among glacial ice that looked ancient against the sky. I remember the small, electric shock of anticipation as our Zodiac approached the shoreline. Whether it was the boat’s impact or my pounding heart, the moment felt enormous. I gripped the captain’s hand, put one foot over the rubber edge and stepped onto snow-dusted rocks. When the captain said, “Welcome to Antarctica,” I smiled and realized I’d been carrying that unspoken dream all along.
Antarctica Info to Go
Most Antarctic cruises depart from Ushuaia, Argentina, which is a short flight from Buenos Aires. For travelers who prefer to skip a sea voyage, charter flights operate from Punta Arenas, Chile, and hybrid options—flying to King George Island and then boarding an expedition vessel—are also available. These choices let travelers tailor the itinerary, time and comfort level that suit them best.