They’re not the most famous wines. Their grapes may be unfamiliar, and the name can be misleading. But if you haven’t yet discovered Vinho Verde, August is an ideal time to try it. From northern Portugal, Vinho Verde is the quintessential summer wine: delicate, light, refreshing, low in alcohol and often lightly pétillant when poured. These wines are meant to be enjoyed young. Although “Vinho Verde” literally means “green wine,” the term refers to youth rather than color, and the wines are usually a very pale yellow rather than green.
Vinho Verde comes in white, rosé and red styles, but the white versions are the standout for summer drinking. There are more than a dozen indigenous grape varieties used for white Vinho Verde, with Loureiro, Trajadura and Alvarinho among the most common. Alvarinho is closely related to Spain’s Albariño, which grows just across the Minho River that separates the two countries.
For an accessible introduction, consider José Maria da Fonseca’s Twin Vines 2010 (about $9). Named for the producer’s twin daughters, this blend of the three principal grapes is pale in color, fresh and crisp, with lively tropical fruit flavors. It’s an easygoing example of what Vinho Verde can offer.
Quinta das Arcas (around $10) is a 100 percent Loureiro that pours almost as pale as water. Despite its light hue, it displays an energetic pétillance and a youthful fruitiness that makes it inviting and food-friendly.
Broadbent Selections’ Vinho Verde (about $10) is similarly light in appearance but delivers a surprisingly assertive profile. It offers a bright citric snap and a relatively long finish, proving that pale color does not mean lack of flavor.
Only Vinho Verde wines from the two northern subregions along the Minho River are allowed to label their bottles as Alvarinho. Quinta da Lixa 2011 (around $14) is a 100 percent Alvarinho that demonstrates greater depth and a more restrained fruit character on the nose, along with a longer aftertaste than many basic Vinho Verdes. It’s a good choice if you want a wine with a bit more presence.
The Artisan Collection’s Las Lilas line includes three Vinho Verdes: a 100 percent Alvarinho, a 100 percent Loureiro and a 50/50 blend of those two grapes. The single-varietal wines are especially fruit-driven and fresh, offering tasty, approachable options in the $10–$12 range.
Vinho Verde pairs exceptionally well with salads, seafood and light appetizers, and it’s equally enjoyable on its own. Its refreshing acidity and gentle effervescence make it an ideal aperitif for warm-weather afternoons and evenings, particularly in August when crisp, lively wines are most welcome.