The morning opened under a heavy, foreboding sky. Our first day in paradise did not begin as planned. My sister Nancy, my niece Meaghan and I had arrived at The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort the afternoon before, excited for a girls’ getaway filled with beach walks, lazy sun-soaked hours, cool evening drinks and, of course, plenty of laughter.
So we did what any sensible trio would do: when it rained in paradise, we headed straight for the spa.
Opened in November 2010 on Puerto Rico’s north coast, The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort occupies a sprawling 483-acre beachfront property between the El Yunque rainforest and the Espiritu Santo River. The two-mile stretch of beach is undeniably the star, but the resort’s proximity to El Yunque — the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System — lends it an adventurous, island hideaway atmosphere. Elevated wooden walkways weave through lush vegetation, connecting guest rooms and common areas, and enhance the sense of being tucked away in a private sanctuary.
I loved wandering the walkways after dark, listening to the soft chorus of unseen tree frogs. Even on a rainy day, the canopy of palm fronds offered shelter from the drops, creating a sheltered, cocoon-like feeling. That sense of magic isn’t accidental: the resort was developed on the grounds of a former coconut plantation with careful attention to preserving native plants and wildlife.
On-site conservation efforts include a private bird sanctuary and a “green team” made up of an ecologist, two agronomists and a landscape architect who nurture the natural vegetation protecting the resort’s coastal and forest areas. A 2.4-acre plant nursery and a hydroponic garden supply landscaping material and support reforestation, while also providing fresh produce and herbs for the spa and dining venues.
Remède Spa at The St. Regis Bahia Beach offers a “Spa Without Walls” concept that lets guests pick the setting for their treatments. With so much lush beauty to choose from, options range from a secluded beach nook to a shady spot beneath a coconut tree or the privacy of a guestroom terrace.
Because of the rain, we chose poolside massages in private cabanas. The expansive pool deck was mostly empty, and at first I felt self-conscious when I realized my cabana backed onto an occupied guestroom terrace. Curtains billowed between us and a couple sipping coffee, but as the massage eased the tension from my shoulders, my self-awareness melted away. That said, on a sunny day I might avoid the alfresco option, when the pool deck could be crowded with families and couples. I also questioned whether the $70 alfresco surcharge is worthwhile, given the tranquil indoor spa and its almost transformative atmosphere.
Light rain followed us back from the cabanas to the main spa. In robes and slippers, we walked along a “floating” pathway bordered by reflective pools, floral arbors and individual treatment villas. Spurred by childhood memories of playing in the rain, we changed quickly and slipped into the garden whirlpool tub, soaking and chatting until our fingers puckered.
Not yet ready to leave our private garden refuge, we wrapped ourselves in plush robes and settled into the adjacent alfresco lounge. Soft lighting, flowing curtains and the hush of rain created an intimate, cozy mood, and for a while we had the whole space to ourselves — perhaps because the weather kept other guests indoors. They missed out.
When it rains in paradise, go to the spa. Sip herbal tea. Talk. Giggle.
The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort
State Road 187 Kilometer 4.2
Rio Grande, PR 00745
tel 787 809 8000
stregisbahiabeach.com