Staying at Condado Vanderbilt Hotel in Puerto Rico — Review by Juan José Cuevas

Arkelare in San Sebastián, Blue Hill in New York City, and El Racó de Can Fabes in Barcelona are among the stops on Chef Juan José Cuevas’ impressive culinary journey. A native of Puerto Rico, Cuevas graduated with honors from the Culinary Institute of America and trained with chefs including Sylvain Portay, Alain Ducasse, Santi Santamaría, Christian Delouvrier, Dan Barber and Ed Brown. In 2009 the International Academy of Gastronomy honored him as Chef de l’Avenir (Chef of the Future).

Cuevas has returned to Puerto Rico as executive chef of the Condado Vanderbilt Hotel’s signature restaurant, 1919, where he applies his global experience to locally inspired dishes.

Confit of Fluke with Aromatic Tomato Broth

Serves 4

For the aromatic tomato broth:
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 shallots, peeled, brunoise
1 quart gazpacho water
½ ounce young ginger, peeled, fine julienne
1 pint red currant tomatoes
1 Trinidad chili
1 ounce cilantro leaves, fine chiffonade
1 lemon segment, seeded
1 teaspoon fleur de sel

Heat the olive oil in a nonreactive pan and sweat the shallots. Add the gazpacho water and warm until just below a boil. Add the ginger, tomatoes, chili, cilantro and lemon. Season to taste with fleur de sel and keep warm.

For the confit of fluke:
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
1 fresh bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
12 ounces garlic, smashed
4 fluke fillets (4 ounces each), skin removed
2 ounces salt

Combine the olive oil, bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns and garlic in a nonreactive pot. Gently heat the oil to about 90°C (just warm, not boiling). Season the fluke with salt and immerse in the warm oil. Poach the fillets approximately 6 minutes per side until cooked through and tender.

PRESENTATION: Place a fluke fillet on each plate and spoon the aromatic tomato broth over the fish.

Halibut a la Plancha with Bok Choy, Chive Blossoms and Aromatic Vegetable Broth

Serves 4

For the aromatic vegetable broth:
4 ounces fennel juice
4 ounces sour apple juice
4 ounces organic carrot juice
4 ounces pumpkin juice
4 ounces red pepper juice
1 ounce honey vinegar
½ ounce chopped lime leaves
2 ounces chopped lemongrass
1 ounce lemon thyme
2 teaspoons toasted curry powder (Vadouvan-style)
1 teaspoon Tellicherry peppercorns
2 ounces extra virgin olive oil
½ ounce butter
½ ounce grapefruit juice

Combine the juices (reserve grapefruit juice) in a saucepan over medium heat and reduce to about 16 ounces. Add the honey vinegar, lime leaves, lemongrass, lemon thyme, curry powder and Tellicherry peppercorns and steep 10 minutes. Strain and finish by whisking in the butter, olive oil and grapefruit juice. Keep warm.

For the bok choy:
8 baby bok choy
2 tablespoons water
1 ounce garlic oil
1 tablespoon Titan parsley (or flat-leaf parsley), chopped
2 teaspoons chive oil
Salt, to taste

Stir-fry the baby bok choy with the water and garlic oil until tender-crisp. Finish with parsley, chive oil and salt to taste.

For the halibut:
4 halibut portions (5 ounces each)
Maldon salt, to taste
1 ounce olive oil

Heat the olive oil on a plancha or heavy skillet. Sear the halibut 3 minutes per side until nicely browned and cooked through. Season with Maldon salt.

For the garnish:
8 chive blossoms

PRESENTATION: Arrange bok choy in the center of each bowl and ladle the aromatic vegetable broth around it. Place a halibut portion on top and garnish with chive blossoms.

Roasted Fennel with Vadouvan Curry © Conrad Vanderbilt Hotel

Roasted Fennel with Vadouvan Curry, Honey, Organic Grains, Red Wine Reduction and Tomato Broth

Serves 4

For the roasted fennel:
2 fennel bulbs, halved lengthwise
Salt, to taste
1 teaspoon Vadouvan curry
1 ounce olive oil
1 cup fennel juice
2 teaspoons honey
1 tablespoon orange juice

Cook the fennel sous vide (water circulator) at 185°F (85°C) for about 45 minutes, or until tender. Season with salt and Vadouvan curry. Sear the cooked fennel in olive oil, then finish with fennel juice, honey and orange juice to glaze.

For the grains:
3 ounces cooked farro
3 ounces cooked freekeh
3 ounces cooked spelt
3 ounces cooked barley
1 tablespoon lemon preserves
2 tablespoons toasted chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons toasted chopped apple
1 tablespoon chopped scallion
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
1 tablespoon chopped mint
1 tablespoon chopped fennel fronds
1 tablespoon mushroom oil
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar

Toss all grain ingredients together, adjust seasoning and set aside at room temperature.

For the red wine reduction:
2 tablespoons mushroom oil
1 shallot, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
2 garlic cloves, germ removed
2 quarts red wine
1 cup Port

Warm the mushroom oil in a saucepan and caramelize the shallot, carrot, celery and garlic. Add the red wine and Port and simmer until reduced to about 1 cup. Strain and keep warm.

For the tomato broth:
1 ounce honey
1 ounce sugar
1 ounce red wine vinegar
1 quart tomato water
3 tomatoes, roasted
1 stalk lemongrass
1 coriander root
1 ounce ginger juice
1 ounce orange juice
1 ounce lemon juice
Olive oil, to taste

Mix the honey, sugar and red wine vinegar and set aside. Simmer the tomato water, roasted tomatoes, lemongrass, coriander root and ginger juice for about 1 hour. Strain through a fine sieve and combine with the honey-sugar-vinegar mixture. Adjust acidity and seasoning with citrus or olive oil to balance the flavor.

For the garnish:
Shaved Parmesan cheese

PRESENTATION: Place a portion of the grain salad on each plate and top with half a roasted fennel bulb. Spoon the red wine reduction and the tomato broth over the dish and finish with shaved Parmesan.

1919

Condado Vanderbilt Hotel
1055 Ashford Ave.
San Juan, PR 00907
tel 787 724 1919
1919restaurant.com