“I think it’s around the next bend,” I said to my husband, Tom, not daring to meet his eyes. I had estimated a 20-minute stroll; nearly an hour had passed. After disembarking from a morning cruise on the Thames, I consulted a map and suggested we walk to Chelsea Physic Garden. In hindsight, it might not have been the best plan on a hot, sunny London day for two people hungry for lunch and eager to relax after sharing the boat with a gaggle of French schoolchildren.
Four unscheduled days in London after a business trip felt like a rare treat. We decided to extend our stay, planning to savor the city at a leisurely pace: popping into small museums, exploring side streets, wandering Royal Parks and dropping into unassuming pubs. “I’d like to see gardens and palaces,” Tom said while we made plans before leaving; that was a given.
A friend recommended getting London Passes to gain entry to many attractions and skip queues, and an Oyster Card at Heathrow with a modest balance for Tube and bus travel, refundable when returned. We followed that advice and found it convenient for moving around the city.
On our first day we limbered up with a walk to The British Museum via Trafalgar Square. “It’s filled with everything everybody wants back,” joked our concierge, referring to the museum’s famous artifacts taken during Britain’s imperial era. The museum’s sober Greek revival exterior gives way to a stunning glass-ceilinged courtyard, and inside we toured highlights: the Rosetta Stone, Assyrian lion hunt reliefs, the horses from the Mausoleum at Halikarnassos, and the Lewis chessmen. We lingered over Egyptian sarcophagi and explored the largest collection of Ming porcelain outside China.
After an information overload, we retreated to Bloomsbury’s Carrera coffee shop, a family-run spot since 1927. The staff recommended the lemon rosemary cake, and it proved an invigorating pick-me-up.
The next morning we visited Kensington Palace. Our concierge described it as a different take on monarchy—less Henry VIII, more Stuarts—and mentioned that a recent guest had spotted Prince William there. Kensington Palace, home to royals since 1689, contains both private apartments for current family members and the historic King’s and Queen’s State Apartments, along with exhibits such as “Victoria Revealed” and “Modern Royals — Fashion Rules.” After admiring the gilded interiors, we strolled into Kensington Gardens, explored the Italian Gardens—said to have been a gift from Prince Albert to Queen Victoria—and viewed the ornate Prince Albert Memorial. Across the Long Water, Hyde Park spread out, reminding us that it had once been Henry VIII’s private hunting grounds before being opened to the public by Charles I.
Inside Kensington Palace © Viorel Dudau | Dreamstime.com
Afternoon tea is a must in London. A tea-savvy friend insisted we try The Savoy, and sitting under the glass-domed Thames Foyer—listening to a pianist in the central gazebo—I understood why. We savored scones, delicate sandwiches, sweets and tea cakes while watching a mix of families and older couples relax around us. The hotel’s history intrigued us as well; a courtyard plaque recounted how the Palace of the Savoy once hosted foreign ladies from European courts centuries ago.
Nearby, the Courtauld Gallery occupies elegant rooms in Somerset House, a Neoclassical building designed by Sir William Chambers. The intimate galleries, with ornate ceilings and marble fireplaces, provide a gorgeous backdrop for an outstanding collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works by Monet, Van Gogh, Degas, Cézanne, Renoir, Seurat and Gauguin. We ended the day with a spirited performance of The 39 Steps at the Criterion Theatre in Piccadilly.
On day three we arrived at Westminster Abbey just before opening to beat the crowds. Our London Passes provided fast entry and a self-guided audio tour. Founded as a Benedictine monastery in the 10th century, Westminster has hosted coronations since 1066. The current Gothic structure dates from the mid-13th century. With more than 3,300 people buried or commemorated there, including 17 monarchs, the abbey’s scale and history are humbling. We left as visitors increased, promising ourselves to return for a quieter service.
Later that morning we boarded a City Cruises boat, journeying past the London Eye and under the shadow of Big Ben. We disembarked at Tower Bridge to tour the Tower of London, a remarkably complete Norman fortress and UNESCO World Heritage site. William the Conqueror’s White Tower dominates the 12-acre complex, which over time has served as a palace, prison, armory, royal menagerie and the home of the Crown Jewels.
On the cruise back toward Westminster, I made the optimistic decision to walk nearly three miles along the Thames to Chelsea Physic Garden. Founded in 1673 by the Society of Apothecaries to teach apprentices about medicinal plants, the garden is a compact and fascinating green space centuries old. Hungry and weary afterward, we detoured to Harrods for a quick look. A helpful guard recommended a nearby pub, the Tea Clipper, where we enjoyed exceptional fish and chips with mushy peas—a generous portion and, the barkeep insisted, a secret family recipe.
A cruise boat near the Tower Bridge © Tomas Marek | Dreamstime.com
On our final day we toured the Royal Mews to see the royal coaches and carriages. Our guide introduced two horses named Concord and Lexington—examples of the whimsical names the Queen had chosen—and explained the history and uses of several carriages, including the spectacular Gold State Coach used in coronations since 1821.
We walked past Buckingham Palace as crowds gathered for the Changing of the Guard, crossed Green Park and strolled along New Bond Street, where a Halcyon Gallery window stopped me in my tracks for Chihuly glass. A nearby installation led us to Grosvenor Square, and on the way we encountered a Porsche rally; by the time we left, Tom had somehow arranged access to a private showing.
After lunch at Selfridges’ food court, we explored The Wallace Collection at Hertford House. Built up by five generations, it displays superb 15th–19th century fine and decorative arts across more than 30 rooms. Highlights included Rococo masterpieces, Dutch and Flemish paintings, Boulle furniture, Italian maiolica and exquisite arms and armor. We paused for tea and scones in the museum café before heading back to Westminster Abbey for Evensong. Seated as the choir and organ began, we experienced a peaceful, resonant finale to our London visit.
London Info to Go
The closest international airport is Heathrow, about 20 miles west of central London. The Heathrow Express is the fastest route into the city, with trains roughly every 15 minutes (operating early morning to late evening). Metered taxis typically run longer but offer door-to-door service and can vary considerably in price depending on traffic.
Where to Stay in London
The Arch London Seven connected Georgian townhouses and two mews homes were transformed into an 82-room boutique hotel in Marylebone, offering a chic base across from notable London residences. 50 Great Cumberland Place, Marble Arch
The Milestone Hotel A luxury boutique hotel opposite Kensington Palace, featuring distinctive rooms and attentive service. 1 Kensington Court
St. Ermin’s Hotel A 4-star Marriott Autograph Collection property within easy walking distance of Westminster and Buckingham Palace, known for its comfortable rooms and popular bar and terrace. 2 Caxton St.
Restaurants in London
The Savoy Afternoon tea beneath a glass dome with live piano accompaniment; arrive hungry to enjoy the full selection of sandwiches, scones and pastries. The Strand
Simpson’s-in-the-Strand A classic dining institution known for traditional British roast beef and tableside carving from an antique silver-domed trolley. 100 Strand
Tea Clipper A straightforward, friendly pub near Harrods serving solid classic fare in a historic Georgian building. 19 Montpelier St., Knightsbridge
Read more about the Royal Horticultural Society Chelsea Flower Show.