Several years ago I made İstanbul my home. Like many relocations, it began with a visit.
I had planned a standard three-day itinerary. Based in Sultanahmet at the Four Seasons, I intended to see the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, wander the winding alleys of the Grand Bazaar and admire the tiled splendor of Topkapı Palace. I pictured a ferry ride to the Asian side for brunch in Kadıköy and perhaps drinks in Moda before catching a nonstop Turkish Airlines flight back to New York.
Those plans unraveled quickly. A chance meeting turned into a long dinner of grilled fish and raki, Turkey’s anise-flavored spirit, shared with new friends. An idea followed that meal: what if I stayed?
I stayed. I spent nearly four years in Beyoğlu, a neighborhood perched on a hill with views over the Bosporus, the waterway that divides Europe and Asia. Once heavily polluted, the Bosporus has seen significant cleanup efforts in recent years, and from my top-floor terrace I would often watch ferries and freighters crisscross the historic strait.
Beyoğlu is best known for İstiklâl Avenue, a lively pedestrian thoroughfare lined with shops, cafés, restaurants and bars. Though the city has changed under the recent political climate, Beyoğlu remains a vibrant part of European İstanbul, a mix of old and new architecture, upscale dining and enticing street food, hidden wine cellars and rooftop pools.
For Black Sea specialties, Hayvore is an excellent choice; for a simple, satisfying grilled kebab try Dürümzade. Pair savory dishes with a cool, salty ayran, Turkey’s national yogurt drink. For sweets, Şirin Fırın offers marzipan and tempting baklava; afterwards, stretch your legs with a walk up to the iconic Galata Tower for panoramic views.
From Galata you can stroll down the hill to the 16th-century Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam to experience a traditional Turkish bath at its finest. Between the historic landmarks, neighborhoods full of character and the steady movement of boats on the Bosporus, İstanbul offers an endlessly engaging mix of history, food and everyday life that can easily turn a short visit into a long stay.