Wines on the Wing 2013: Highlights from the 2013 Wine Flight Festival

Stretching across Manhattan from the Hudson River to the East River, 42nd Street takes on a different character almost every block and, for much of its length, pulses with nearly 24-hour energy.

One recent addition to 42nd Street, between Second and Third avenues, is The Westin New York Grand Central, a 774-room hotel that brings the benefits of a Midtown Manhattan address without the intensity often associated with the area. The hotel sits just minutes from Grand Central Terminal, close to the United Nations, a short ride from Times Square and provides easy access to the rest of the city. It feels like a calm center amid the surrounding bustle.

The Westin also places a strong emphasis on food and wine. Its restaurant and bar, The LCL: Bar & Kitchen, which operates nearly around the clock, serves seasonal dishes alongside a curated selection of small-batch spirits, regional beers and organic wines.

For those reasons The Westin served as the setting for Wines on the Wing, Global Traveler’s annual International First Class and Business Class Airline Wine Competition. In May, 25 wine professionals evaluated 162 wines submitted by 34 airlines around the world.

For the second year running, the airlines with the highest overall scores in both First and Business Class categories were the same as the previous year. British Airways again topped the First Class entries, while Brussels Airlines retained the highest score among Business Class submissions.

“We are thrilled,” said Lynn McClelland, head of catering for British Airways. “The award recognizes our discerning customers, and we’re delighted it has been such a positive experience for them.” To create that experience, British Airways rotates its first-class wine list monthly, serving roughly 120,000 bottles a year, and tailors selections by route to showcase wines from destination regions. Their consistent first-class offerings include premium Champagne, a high-quality white Burgundy and a fine Claret. Among the airline’s top-scoring First Class wines this year were Laurent-Perrier Grande Siècle Champagne and Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion 2005.

Brussels Airlines’ repeat victory in Business Class started with Laurent-Perrier Brut, the highest-scoring Champagne in its category and the top Champagne of the entire contest. Catering managers Philippe Mortier and Johan Duwijn said the win “motivates us more than ever to continue our wine selection strategy,” which focuses on three families of wines: classic French châteaux, international selections (Italian, Spanish and New World) and a rotating surprise wine of the month, with one Belgian wine featured regularly. Brussels Airlines pours about 4,000 bottles of wine each month on long-haul flights and uses crew feedback to fine-tune selections based on passengers’ reactions.

Hainan Airlines performed strongly in the Champagne category, with its G.H. Mumm Brut winning International First Class Champagne. Its Torres Sangre de Toro, praised by judge Lisa Donneson as delicious and well balanced, was the top-scoring red in both First and Business Class categories. Hainan, which has limited first-class service, offers many of the same wines in both cabins; its business-class G.H. Mumm was among the Top Five Champagnes in that class. Joel Chusid, Hainan’s executive director, USA, said, “We are thrilled to have won these awards. We’ve worked hard to achieve world-class service.” The airline serves a mix of continental and traditional Chinese cuisine, which can complicate wine pairing, and chooses its wines through blind tastings conducted by an international panel of master sommeliers and wine professionals. Hainan opens nearly 70,000 bottles annually.

Jet Airways dominated the Top White Wines International First Class awards, taking both first and second place. Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 2010 earned praise for its “elegant nose” and “fine balance,” while Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis 2009, Grand Cru, was noted as classic and complex. Jet Airways’ business-class Champagne, Billecart-Salmon, ranked among the Top Five in its category. The airline pours approximately 150,000 bottles of wine and 25,000 bottles of Champagne each year. Sudheer Raghavan, chief commercial officer, said the honor reflects Jet Airways’ commitment to enhancing the passenger experience.

All Nippon Airways (ANA) collected six awards and ranked among the Top Five Wines on the Wing airlines in both First and Business Class. Highlights included Montaudon Réserve Première among top Business Class Champagnes, August Kesseler Riesling 2008 in the Top Five International First Class whites, Albert Bichot Saint-Véran 2011 as the highest-scoring white in International Business Class, and Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry 2008 among top First Class reds. Toshitaka Watanabe, senior vice president, CS & Product Services, said, “Our great honor. As a 5-star airline, we have a wide selection of wines produced by top-caliber wineries from around the world.” ANA uses more than a quarter-million full bottles and another quarter-million 187ml bottles in first and business classes and refreshes its selections each March after tasting panels that include sommeliers, novices and passengers.

China Airlines won four awards and placed among the Top Five International First Class carriers. Its Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve 2000 ranked among the Top Five First Class Champagnes; A. Schmitt Riesling 2009 was a Top Five First Class white; and Château Langoa-Barton 1997 landed among the Top Five First Class reds. The airline’s selection process is committee-driven, narrowing choices by grape, region and specific standards. China Airlines uses about 20,000 bottles of Champagne, 38,000 bottles of red and 27,000 bottles of white annually in its premium cabins. Roger Y.C. Chang, vice president of in-flight service supply, said the team was proud to continue offering top quality to guests.

LATAM Airlines Group’s marketing vice president Jerome Cadier praised TAM’s performance in the competition. TAM placed among the Top Five International Business Class airlines, earned a Top Five First Class Champagne spot with Drappier Grande Sendrée 2005 and scored a Top Five Business Class red with Abadia Retuerta 2009. The airline pours roughly 26,500 bottles in first class and more than 146,000 bottles in business class each year.

In the White Wines International Business Class category, the margin between first and second place was razor-thin. South African Airways’ Ridgeback Sauvignon Blanc 2012 finished just 0.12 points behind the winner.

Of the 34 airlines in the 2013 competition, 14 belonged to the three major alliances — oneworld, SkyTeam and Star Alliance. SkyTeam, represented by Delta Air Lines and China Airlines, posted the highest combined alliance score.

In the North America category, which covers airlines offering first- or business-class service within the continent, Delta Air Lines earned the top overall score. Delta also took first place among white wines with Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2011. For the fourth consecutive year, American Airlines offered the top-scoring North American sparkling wine, Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut. Virgin America won the top North American red with Fantesca Estate & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. Notably, all winners in this category were California wines.

As the saying goes, “Life is too short to drink bad wine.” Judging by the selections in Global Traveler’s competition, the 25 judges had no shortage of excellent wines to enjoy.

© Christopher P. Ottaunick

TOP FIVE INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS WINES ON THE WING

  1. British Airways
  2. All Nippon Airlines
  3. Jet Airways
  4. China Airlines
  5. American Airlines

TOP FIVE INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS WINES ON THE WING

  1. Brussels Airlines
  2. All Nippon Airlines
  3. Delta Air Lines
  4. United
  5. TAM

TOP FIVE CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS

  1. G.H. Mumm Brut, NV — Hainan Airlines
  2. Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve 2000 — China Airlines
  3. Laurent-Perrier Grande Siècle, NV — British Airways
  4. Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 1999 — United
  5. Drappier Grande Sendrée 2005 — TAM

TOP FIVE CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS

  1. Laurent-Perrier Brut, NV — Brussels Airlines
  2. Montaudon Réserve Première Brut, NV — All Nippon Airways
  3. G.H. Mumm Brut, NV — Hainan Airlines
  4. Tie
    Jacquart Brut Mosaïque, NV — Delta Air Lines
    Jacquart Brut Mosaïque, NV — Etihad Airways
    Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve, NV — United
  5. Billecart-Salmon Brut, NV — Jet Airways

TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS

  1. Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 2010, France — Jet Airways
  2. Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis 2009, Grand Cru, France — Jet Airways
  3. Henri Darnat Meursault Clos du Domaine 2010, France — American Airlines
  4. August Kesseler Riesling 2008, Germany — All Nippon Airways
  5. A. Schmitt Riesling 2009, Germany — China Airlines

TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS

  1. Albert Bichot Saint-Véran 2011, France — All Nippon Airways
  2. Ridgeback Sauvignon Blanc 2012, South Africa — South African Airways
  3. Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran 2011, France — Delta Air Lines
  4. Dreissigacker Silvaner & Chardonnay 2012, Germany — airberlin
  5. Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay 2011, California — United

TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS

  1. Torres Sangre de Toro 2011, Spain — Hainan Airlines
  2. Château Larrivet-Haut Brion 2005, France — British Airways
  3. Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry 2008, France — All Nippon Airways
  4. Tie
    Château Langoa-Barton 1997, France — China Airlines
    Aquamarine Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Israel — EL AL Israel Airlines
  5. Wairau Hills Pinot Noir 2011, New Zealand — Etihad Airways

TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS

  1. Torres Sangre de Toro 2011, Spain — Hainan Airlines
  2. Abadia Retuerta 2009, Spain — TAM
  3. Zuccardi Zeta 2008, Argentina — LAN
  4. Barón Ladrón de Guevara 2010, Spain — airberlin
  5. Château Laroque 2003, France — Etihad Airways

TOP NORTH AMERICAN FIRST CLASS/ BUSINESS CLASS

TOP NORTH AMERICAN WINES ON THE WING
Delta Air Lines

TOP NORTH AMERICAN SPARKLING WINE
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut, NV, California — American Airlines

TOP NORTH AMERICAN WHITE WINE
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2011, California — Delta Air Lines

TOP NORTH AMERICAN RED WINE
Fantesca Estate & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, California — Virgin America

TOP AIRLINE ALLIANCE
SkyTeam
Represented by China Airlines and Delta Air Lines

JUDGING PROCESS

To enter Global Traveler’s competition, international airlines offering long-haul first- and business-class service were invited to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or other sparkling wine currently on their premium wine lists, along with their wine lists. The same rules applied to North American carriers with first- or business-class service. There was no fee to enter.

Wines were coded and grouped into flights by type and origin — for example, California Cabernet Sauvignon together, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc together — and poured into coded glasses. Judges were told the wine type, origin and, when applicable, the vintage. If a sample appeared flawed, a reserve bottle was used. Professional assistants poured the wines while Global Traveler staff monitored the tasting.

Each wine was scored on a modified Davis 20-point scale. Judges’ individual scores were averaged for each wine, and the averaged scores for an airline’s submissions were totaled. Individual top-scoring wines and the airlines with the highest overall totals received Wines on the Wing awards.

JUDGES’ BIOS

Colman Andrews is editorial director of TheDailyMeal.com, co-founder of Saveur and a former wine columnist for Los Angeles Magazine. He has won eight James Beard awards, including one for Best Writing on Wine and Spirits.

Manos Angelakis is senior wine and food writer for Luxury Web Magazine and author of the semi-monthly Oenophile Blog. He travels extensively through major wine regions.

Cesar Baeza is an enologist, consultant and educator. A native of Chile, he studied winemaking in Chile, France, Spain and California and served as wine master and co-owner of Brotherhood Winery for 20 years.

Philip di Belardino directs fine wine development at Banfi Vintners and Excelsior Wines, lectures at Cornell’s School of Hotel Administration and the Culinary Institute of America, and has worked in the wine industry since 1973.

Lisa Donneson is proprietor of Bouké and Bouquet wines produced on Long Island, a Wine and Spirits Education Trust graduate and member of the Institute of Wines & Spirits and Long Island Wine Council.

Carl Etcheverry is sommelier at the Union League of Philadelphia and previously managed a 26,000-bottle cellar at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort.

John Fanning is partner and general manager of SD26 in Manhattan and has served as wine director and manager at numerous notable restaurants in New York and Rome.

Fred Ferretti is a wine and food writer whose work appears in national publications; he formerly reported for The New York Times and wrote for Gourmet.

Xavier Flouret is founder and CEO of Cognac One, a New York wine importer and creator of the Xavier Flouret label.

David Frieser is president of Beekman Liquors in Manhattan and a frequent wine lecturer with 30 years of professional experience.

Curtis Green is president and founder of TenFolks Enterprises, a wine education company focused on broadening wine interest among African Americans.

David Gross works with Sherbrooke Cellars, a wholesaler of small family-owned wineries, with over 20 years in the wine trade.

Harriet Lembeck leads the Wine and Spirits Program, has taught wine for 30 years and authored multiple editions of Grossman’s Guide to Wine.

Gilles Martin is winemaker and director of Sparkling Pointe on Long Island, trained in France and experienced at established wineries.

John McClement directs wine and spirits for All Weather Management, overseeing wine programs for several restaurants across New York, California and Ireland.

Katherine Moore is general manager of Union Square Wine & Spirits in Manhattan.

Elizabeth Palmer is a Toronto-based wine writer whose work has appeared in multiple publications and who is authoring books about Champagne.

Fred Price is New York metro sales manager for Maximum Wine Co., a specialist importer/distributor, and a former sommelier and wine director.

Arno Schmidt served as executive chef at The Waldorf Astoria and The Plaza and organized numerous wine and food events during a long hospitality career.

Robert Shack owns HB Wine Merchants/R. Shack Selections and Clos Robert Winery in Sonoma, and previously led Rémy Martin’s Premiere Wine Merchants Division.

John Sheldon represents Artisan and Pas Mal, founded the New York Wine Tasting School and consults for restaurants and private clubs.

Peter Sichel is a fourth-generation wine grower and négociant, an authority on German and Bordeaux wines, and author of wine books.

Darrin Siegfried owns Il Gallo Giallo Wine Bar, leads the Sommelier Society of America and has managed restaurants and wine retail ventures in New York and the Hudson Valley.

Mary Taylor manages the French wine portfolio for Sherbrooke Cellars, founded the Thoreau Wine Society and has extensive fine wine experience at Sotheby’s and Acker Merrall & Condit.

Cristian Vasquez is food and beverage director of The Westin New York Grand Central and has worked in hotel restaurant management since 1995 after graduating from Johnson & Wales University.