Israel topped my travel wish list for one clear reason: the Dead Sea. I hoped its restorative qualities would finally help with a long-standing skin condition. Yet the country offered far more than a single cure. From the moment I arrived I felt history and modern life intertwined—ancient places infused with contemporary energy. A perfect example is Jaffa, an age-old port that remains vibrant within fashionable Tel Aviv.
Jaffa is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, and Tel Aviv’s modern planning preserves its character. Walking Jaffa’s narrow, cobbled lanes brings famous mythic and biblical stories to life: echoes of John the Baptist, Jonah and the whale, and the tales of the Andromeda rocks are everywhere. Stroll the streets to admire the clock tower, St. Peter’s Church, Simon the Tanner’s House and the historic Egyptian Gate—each site offering a tangible link to past centuries.
But Jaffa is not frozen in time. Plans for two new boutique hotels reflect ongoing renewal, while the neighborhood’s thriving shopping and dining scene blends tradition with contemporary taste. A highlight is the Artnova gallery, which showcases a rare Israeli technique called soft painting. Developed in the late 1980s, this method uses synthetic fibers and recycled plastics to create vivid, textured works; only a handful of artists still practice it, and their vibrant pieces draw visitors into the showroom.
Galleries, jewelry shops and independent boutiques line Jaffa’s streets, inviting leisurely browsing and discovery. For more immersive art, the Ilana Goor Museum and Gallery is essential. Ilana Goor, a notable Israeli sculptor and collector, lives in the museum building. Her home is filled with antiques and artworks from around the globe, and wandering the rooms feels like moving through a personal archive of global creativity. Goor’s presence helped spark Jaffa’s cultural revival, encouraging other artists to open galleries and studios in the area. For those focused on Israeli art beyond Jaffa, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art—though outside the old port—offers outstanding exhibitions and is well worth a visit.
When you need a break from sightseeing, head to Dr. Shakshuka for a satisfying midday meal. The restaurant serves authentic, home-style dishes—try the mafroom and, of course, the shakshuka—that echo the region’s culinary traditions while fitting seamlessly into Jaffa’s modern food scene. After eating, continue along the port and beachfront to explore flea markets, gourmet stalls and lively bars; Jaffa’s blend of history, art and contemporary life makes every corner a new discovery.