Cook Islands Healing Arts: Traditional Medicine and Practices

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I walk along a dusty path bordered by a rich variety of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang beneath umbrella-like leaves; green bananas dangle on the stems; and ripe mangos have fallen to the ground. Blossoming bushes scent the air, butterflies wheel around my head, and a nearby stream gurgles. A sow with a clutch of piglets ambles down the road with me. Ten roosters crow in overlapping calls even though morning has long passed. Though the sea is close, hiking inland amid steep hills and dense vegetation, I feel as if I’ve slipped into a world of my own.

I’m not alone. Sharing this walk is one of the Cook Islands’ most vivid personalities: Uncle Pa, a former world surfing champion who is now a celebrated healer. In his eighties, he still wears long dreadlocks, walks shirtless in a colorful sarong and moves with the strength and vitality of a much younger man. An herbalist, or kahuna, he learned the uses of local plants from his grandmother and has helped thousands recover their health. As we stroll, he gathers leaves, flowers, berries and fruit, explaining how he transforms them into elixirs and poultices. He lets me taste a few remedies — not all pleasant. Noni juice, dark as tobacco and famed for its healing properties, tastes of old cheese. Enthralled by the landscape, I struggle to keep up with Uncle Pa’s energetic pace as he shows me what he calls his “treasure chest”: the living pharmacy of the islands.

The Cook Islands, a cluster of 15 simple and rustic islands, feel like Hawai’i might have decades ago. A blend of Polynesian cultures closely tied to Māori traditions — some legends say canoes left Rarotonga centuries ago for New Zealand and other islands — the nation’s wellness practices are rooted in the land. Relaxed and welcoming, and generally more affordable than Fiji or Tahiti, the Cook Islands boast crystalline lagoons, sugary sand, excellent diving, untouched wilderness and exceptionally friendly people. Compliment someone’s clothing and they might give it to you. Need a lift? Locals will eagerly offer a ride. Lost? They’ll walk you to your destination. Hungry? They’ll share a meal. On Sundays they’ll invite visitors into church, where exuberant singing and clapping celebrate community life. Often visitors are welcomed with a floral wreath to wear in their hair.

On Rarotonga I stayed at Crown Resort & Spa, a relaxed beachside retreat with individual cabanas. Spa Ariki at the resort works with local healers like Uncle Pa, blending ancestral knowledge with contemporary treatments. “At Spa Ariki, our therapists understand that lasting beauty is more than skin deep,” the spa director told me before a custom treatment to address jet lag. The spa’s offerings combine reflexology, acupressure, homeopathy and massage. My treatment began in a lava-rock tub filled with coconut milk and flower petals in a garden setting. After a soak, my skin was exfoliated and nourished with papaya, and the session concluded with a lomi lomi–style massage, which stretched and soothed my muscles from head to toe.

Modern health care in the Cook Islands often blends Western medicine with Māori traditions. Native healers trained by elders treat common complaints using plants, herbs and fruits from home gardens — from coconut oil for hair to capsaicin-rich peppers for insect bite irritation. Visitors can join Uncle Pa’s herbal walks several days a week to learn about island remedies. Many spas across the islands also incorporate native practices and botanicals into their menus. At Pacific Resort Aitutaki, situated on Aitutaki’s lagoon rim, the Tiare Spa uses products by Te Tika made from authentic Cook Islands botanicals. “Our staff appreciate the traditional remedies their parents and grandparents used to restore wellness,” the spa director there explained. Some common uses include swabbing cuts with noni, drinking a tea from the mile-a-minute vine for headaches, and mixing onion with tamanu oil to relax and soothe tired muscles.

Whether or not you visit a spa, a sense of wellbeing is easy to find in the Cook Islands. Immersed in a slow, openhearted culture, visitors often feel mana — a calming, soulful energy. Locals greet you with warmth and laughter, and their sincerity and care can help you unwind. Beyond the people, the islands’ unspoiled beauty invites exploration: on Rarotonga or Aitutaki you can take a sunset cruise, try stand-up paddleboarding, visit an uninhabited motu for the day, fish, snorkel and dive. The experience is less about luxury and more about authenticity — getting to know locals who return from urban jobs to care for family, or volunteers and scientists working to conserve marine life. The islands feel delightfully out of step with modern hustle: internet can be costly, phones are less common among kids, and many visitors find themselves abandoning email for the day. That unplugged simplicity can be exactly what you need.

Cook Islands Info to Go

International carriers service Rarotonga International Airport, the main entry point to the Cook Islands. In recent years Air New Zealand introduced direct weekly service from Los Angeles on larger aircraft, making travel from the United States more convenient.

Where to Stay in the Cook Islands

CROWN BEACH RESORT & SPA A friendly, no-frills resort on the beach offering kitchenettes for longer stays. Its small spa features treatments inspired by local traditions. Main Ring Road, Arorangi, Rarotonga $$$

PACIFIC RESORT AITUTAKI A Small Luxury Collection property with standalone thatched-roof villas on a picturesque beach and a lovely pool, this is the Cook Islands’ premier five-star option. Aitutaki $$$$

RUMOURS LUXURY VILLAS & SPA Situated right on the beach, Rumours offers a collection of sleek, private villas and personalized service from on-site owners. Rarotonga $$$$

Restaurants in the Cook Islands

CAFÉ TUPUNA A small, chef-owned spot on Aitutaki known for its chili-lime fish served in a coconut shell, creamy cheesecake and a rich seafood chowder. Tautu Road, Aitutaki $$$

THE MOORING FISH CAFÉ Casual, friendly and famous for an exceptional fish sandwich, this locally owned café is a Cook Islands favorite. Avana Harbour near Muri Beach, Rarotonga $$

NAUTILUS RESTAURANT A beachfront restaurant in an upscale hotel with panoramic sea views. The menu highlights local produce and fresh seafood. Nautilus Resort Rarotonga, Muri, Rarotonga $$$