Toronto native Massimo De Francesca grew up immersed in the flavors and traditions of his Italian heritage. The son of immigrants from southern Italy, he learned early how to prepare the dishes that defined his family table.
After graduating from George Brown College’s Culinary Arts program in Toronto, De Francesca refined his technique on the Adriatic Coast. There he trained with Michelin-starred chef Vincenzo Cammerucci at Ristorante Lido Lido in Cesenatico. He returned to Toronto in 1999 and worked under celebrated French chef Jean Pierre Challet before moving on to culinary opportunities in the Cayman Islands.
Today De Francesca is the executive chef at Domaso Trattoria Moderna at Hotel Palomar in Arlington, Va. His menus blend classic Italian roots with influences gathered from international kitchens, served in a dining room with views of the Georgetown skyline.
Spaghetti carbonara Serves 4
12 ounces spaghetti, fresh or dry
5 ounces Virginia ham, sliced into 1/4-inch matchsticks
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, coarsely ground
4 egg yolks
8 ounces heavy cream, divided
4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 ounces dry white wine (Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay)
4 quail yolks (optional)
Salt, to taste
Bring a large pot of salted water (about 5 quarts) to a rolling boil.
In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and half of the heavy cream until smooth; reserve the remaining cream.
In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil and butter, then add the shallots, garlic, coarsely ground peppercorns and Virginia ham. Gently cook for about 5 minutes without browning. Add the white wine and simmer until nearly evaporated. Stir in the reserved cream and bring to a gentle simmer, reducing by about half.
Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and stir to prevent sticking. Cook to desired doneness, typically 9 to 11 minutes for dry pasta. Reserve a cup of pasta water, then drain the pasta.
Add some reserved pasta water to the sauté pan and return to medium heat until it simmers. Remove the pan from the heat and quickly stir in the egg yolk and cream mixture along with the grated Parmigiano, stirring energetically so the residual heat cooks and thickens the sauce without scrambling the eggs. Adjust the sauce consistency with reserved pasta water as needed. Season with salt to taste.
PRESENTATION: Serve immediately in warm pasta bowls or on a warmed platter. Finish with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and freshly ground black pepper. For extra richness, top each portion with a quail yolk, if desired.
Scallops carpaccio Serves 1
For the vinaigrette:
¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard
Juice of ¼ lemon
½ ounce extra virgin olive oil
1 pinch pink peppercorns, crushed
Whisk the mustard and lemon juice together until smooth. Slowly stream in the olive oil while whisking to emulsify. Stir in the crushed pink peppercorns and set the vinaigrette aside.
1½ dry scallops
¼ ounce pancetta, cut into small cubes
1 pinch sea salt
1 pinch fennel pollen
½ radish, julienned
Micro celery or microgreens, for garnish
Place the pancetta cubes in a small pan over medium heat and render slowly until the pancetta is crisp. Drain on paper towel and set aside.
Using a sharp knife, slice the scallops very thinly across the grain and arrange the slices in a single layer on a chilled plate. Lightly sprinkle with sea salt and fennel pollen. Scatter the julienned radish and crispy pancetta over the scallops. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and finish with micro celery or a small selection of microgreens.
Domaso Trattoria Moderna
Hotel Palomar
1121 N. 19th St.
Arlington, VA 22209
tel 703 351 1211