Dramatic mountains. Breathtaking vistas. Spring-like weather year-round. Five-star hotels. For decades these qualities drew an older, affluent crowd to the Portuguese island of Madeira, situated in the Atlantic about 700 miles from the mainland. Notable visitors included George Bernard Shaw, who learned to tango on the lawn of the iconic Reid’s Palace Hotel, and Sir Winston Churchill, who painted the island’s spectacular seascapes.
But the scene on this verdant 35-by-13-mile volcanic island is changing.
The silver-haired travelers remain, yet new groups are settling or visiting: entrepreneurs attracted by favorable EU startup conditions, young families escaping harsher northern winters, and adventure seekers pursuing surfing, cave diving, trail running and challenging cycling routes. Local outfitters such as Terras de Adventura and LokoLoko provide gear and guides for many activities.
Begin your visit in Funchal, Madeira’s capital. The city’s name comes from the wild fennel (funchal) that perfumed the air when Portuguese sailors first discovered the island some 600 years ago. Today visitors wander the old town’s narrow cobbled streets. The interactive Madeira Story Centre offers a lively overview of the island’s history, including pirate attacks and maritime trade. For families, the Museo do Brinquedo delights with more than 20,000 toys, from cars and dolls to vintage action figures. Rua de Santa Maria is well worth a stroll to see the Art of Open Doors Project, where local artists painted imaginative scenes on front doors.
On Saturday mornings head to Mercado dos Lavradores and admire the building’s blue-and-white-tiled façade. The market’s stalls showcase tropical fruits—try the small, honey-scented bananas, custard apple and the philodendron fruit that looks like a pineapple but tastes of banana. Flower vendors in colorful traditional dress sell lilies, roses, orchids and birds of paradise, and the downstairs fish market offers a vivid, authentic atmosphere. Small bars around the market serve drinks and quick bites.
Mercado dos Lavradores in Funchal © STEVE ALLEN – DREAMSTIME.COM
Even non-religious visitors often appreciate attending a service at Funchal Cathedral, consecrated in 1514, to admire painted cherubs, gilded statues and the intricate Portuguese knotwork (alfarge) ceiling.
From the old town, take the cable car up to Monte for sweeping views over the bay and the surrounding hills. Monte was once home to Madeira’s wealthy families during the sugarcane era; many 17th- and 18th-century houses and gardens remain. The Monte Palace Tropical Garden features lakes, waterfalls and exotic plant species.
For an adrenaline rush, descend from Monte in a wicker sleigh piloted by straw-hatted carreiros. This traditional form of transport, dating to the 1850s, can reach speeds up to 30 mph on the steep streets below. To explore farther afield, rent a car or hire a driver if navigating narrow mountain roads and tight hairpin turns feels daunting.
Madeira charms with picturesque villages such as São Vicente, where white-walled houses with deep-green shutters and red roofs line the streets. Visit the 17th-century church before exploring Grutas de São Vicente—caves formed by lava flows more than 400,000 years ago.
In Porto Moniz, swim in natural lava pools filled by the ocean’s tides; arrive early to avoid cruise-ship crowds. Take a whale-, dolphin- and turtle-watching tour by catamaran or speedboat. Drive out to the postcard-perfect Ponta do Pargo lighthouse at the island’s western point for dramatic coastal scenery.
Put on hiking shoes and tackle a levada walk—trail routes that follow Madeira’s historic irrigation channels carved into the mountains nearly 600 years ago. With more than 1,200 miles of levadas, options range from gentle strolls to strenuous hikes. Guided groups such as Madeira Levadas and Go Trail Madeira offer knowledgeable leaders, or you can follow mapped routes independently.
A visit to Madeira should include sampling its fortified Madeira wine. Preferences vary—some sip it as an aperitif, others pair it with cheese or mix it with tonic and ice. Blandy’s Wine Lodge offers a Premium Tour that showcases both young and rare vintages, and its 1811 Bistro & Wine Bar pairs wines with tapas-style dishes.
Although Madeira’s coastline spans about 99 miles with striking blue waters, natural sandy beaches are limited. For long stretches of golden sand, take the short 15-minute flight to neighboring Porto Santo. That tiny island is prized for diving—explore wrecks and submerged artifacts—and also features a wind-swept 18-hole golf course designed by Severiano Ballesteros.
Madeira Info to Go
Most international travelers connect through Lisbon. Domestic flights from Lisbon to Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport (FNC) take roughly one hour and 45 minutes. The airport sits about 14 miles from Funchal; taxis run around $35. Pre-booked transfer services are also available for door-to-door convenience.
Where to Stay in Madeira
BELMOND REID’S PALACE HOTEL Perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the Atlantic, this elegant hotel has welcomed distinguished guests since 1891. Expect Champagne buffets, dance evenings and daily afternoon tea on the terrace. Buffet breakfast included. Estrada Monumental 139, Funchal $$$$
CASA VELHA DO PALHEIRO This 37-room hotel evokes an English country-house atmosphere with chintz and antiques, set within lush gardens. Amenities include a heated pool, sauna, tennis, croquet and billiards; a private yacht is available for deep-sea fishing. Rua da Estalagem 23, Funchal $$$$
SAVOY PALACE A modern hotel shaped like an undulating wave, recently refreshed and offering 352 rooms, multiple pools, several restaurants and a large spa. Most rooms have sea views. Ave. do Infante 25, Funchal $$$
Restaurants in Madeira
IL GALLO D’ORO A two-Michelin-star restaurant focusing on fresh, locally sourced fish and seasonal tasting menus. Its extensive cellar includes older vintages, and the terrace provides lovely views. Estrada Monumental 147, Funchal $$$$$
RESTAURANTE DO FORTE Set atop the battlements of the 17th-century São Tiago fort, this popular spot serves regional favorites such as black scabbard fish with fried bananas, alongside seafood risottos and vegetarian options. Rua do Portão de São Tiago, Forte de São Tiago, Funchal $$$$
RESTAURANTE TOKOS An intimate, 12-table restaurant run by a husband-and-wife team in a 100-year-old house. The menu emphasizes just-caught, simply grilled fish and fresh local produce; reservations are essential. Estrada Monumental 169, Funchal $$$$