Washington D.C. Food Scene with Chef Wes Morton: Art & Soul

“I really enjoy applying the discipline and techniques from my classical training to approachable, no-fuss food that highlights clean flavors and memorable plating.”

That philosophy guides Executive Chef Wes Morton’s work at Art and Soul, the Washington, D.C. restaurant owned by Chef Art Smith. Morton says, “I bring this approach to Art and Soul, elevating the ‘soul’ while maintaining the integrity of Chef Art’s vision.”

A graduate of the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont, Morton adopted a farm-to-table mindset long before it became a culinary buzzword. He grew up hunting and fishing with his father in Lafayette, Louisiana, where his grandmother turned fresh catch into the family’s Sunday lunch.

While at Againn in Washington, D.C., Morton earned recognition for recipes built around locally sourced ingredients. At Art and Soul he continues to work with regional farmers to develop seasonally inspired menus that emphasize fresh produce and thoughtful techniques.

Dirty rice with mushroom Bolognese

For the dirty rice:
1 cup cooked Carolina gold rice
½ cup mushroom Bolognese (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon butter
Grana Padano, grated, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
Roasted mushrooms, for plating
Extra virgin olive oil, for plating

Combine the cooked rice and mushroom Bolognese in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is nearly dry. Add the butter, grated Grana Padano, salt, pepper and parsley. Continue to reduce until the rice is glazed and the flavors meld.

For the mushroom Bolognese:
2 pints finely chopped button mushrooms
Olive oil
1 pint cooked soffritto (recipe follows)
2 pints mushroom stock or vegetable stock
Salt and pepper, to taste

Heat olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and sweat them slowly until their moisture has evaporated and they take on a deep brown color, about one hour. Add the cooked soffritto and cook 10 minutes more. Add the mushroom or vegetable stock and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the liquid reduces by about half. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the soffritto:
1 pint finely chopped carrots
1 pint finely chopped red onions
1 pint finely chopped celery
Olive oil

Combine the vegetables in a saucepot and add enough olive oil to cover about two-thirds of them. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook slowly for 4–6 hours, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are deeply caramelized and richly flavored.

Presentation: Spoon the dirty rice into a bowl, top with roasted mushrooms and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Shrimp and grits Photo: © Morgan Lynn Photography

Shrimp and grits

1 cup coarse organic white grits
1 cup fine organic white grits
8 cups water
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
2 tablespoons chives, shaved
1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese, grated
5 U21–25 fresh shrimp, shelled and deveined
1 ounce Andouille sausage, cut into ½-inch cubes
Lemon juice, to taste
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons water
1 ounce butter

Mix the coarse and fine grits together and set aside. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Slowly whisk in the grits and cook gently, whisking frequently, until tender—about 4–5 hours—adding salt to taste. Remove from heat and set aside.

Season the shrimp with salt on both sides and set aside. Heat a sauté pan until it is just smoking and add enough oil to lightly coat the surface. Add the Andouille and cook until the cubes are caramelized on all sides. Remove the sausage and drain on paper towels, reserving the pan and the flavored oil.

In a small saucepot, combine 1 cup of the cooked grits with crème fraîche, Parmesan and chives. Season with salt and heat gently, whisking to maintain a smooth, creamy texture.

Reheat the pan used for the sausage until it begins to smoke, then add the shrimp and sear both sides to caramelize. Cook until just done, then remove the shrimp and drain on paper towels. Pour off excess oil from the pan, add 2 tablespoons of water and the butter, and reduce until slightly thickened. Add lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce, and adjust seasoning with salt.

Presentation: Spoon the creamy grits into a small serving bowl, arrange the shrimp on top, scatter the Andouille over the dish, and spoon the pan sauce over the shrimp and grits.

Art and Soul

The Liaison Capitol Hill, An Affinia Hotel
415 New Jersey Ave., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20001
tel 202 393 7777
artandsouldc.com