Lucky Break in Phuket: Top Tips for an Unforgettable Visit

Photo: Ellen Clark

After nearly a week of business meetings in Bangkok, my friend Gayle and I decided to reward ourselves with a short R&R escape to the beach and caught a flight to Phuket. Fifty years ago Thailand’s largest island was largely unknown to mainstream travelers, visited mainly by backpackers who enjoyed long stretches of white sand and simple local hospitality. Once word spread, development followed quickly: hotels, resorts and restaurants multiplied, and visitors from around the world flocked to Phuket.

Even the devastation of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami only briefly slowed tourism. Today Phuket is back in full swing, welcoming thousands of visitors each year.

Although some dismiss Phuket as overdeveloped—packed with hotels, bars and touristy spots—the island actually offers a wide range of experiences to suit different tastes.

Neither Gayle nor I wanted to spend our days simply lounging in one place, so we rented a car to explore the island at our own pace. We also decided to split our stay between two hotels: one in the heart of the action and one in a quieter setting.

From the airport we drove south to Sawasdee Village, our first hotel, a 10-minute walk from Kata Beach. The property features classic Southeast Asian architecture, lush gardens and sparkling pools—an attractive oasis close to the shore.

Arriving too late to hit the beach, we had a relaxed dinner at the hotel and then headed to Patong to sample a slice of its famous nightlife. In the small Bangla area we found dozens of bars and clubs ranging from casual beer bars to more risqué venues aimed at a lively, younger crowd. The scene was loud, crowded and bawdy—definitely not for everyone. After a beer and some people-watching, we were happy to return to the peaceful atmosphere of our Thai-style hotel.

The following morning we visited Hat Patong, the island’s most developed beach. This crescent-shaped bay stretches nearly two miles and is the focal point for water activities: rows of plastic lounge chairs, colorful umbrellas, jet skis, banana boats and windsurfers filled the scene. Paragliders drifted overhead while swimmers and sunbathers crowded the sand. It was energetic and bustling—more than we wanted—so we returned to Sawasdee Village and took the complimentary shuttle to nearby Kata Beach. Kata was lively but more relaxed; we settled under striped umbrellas with books and enjoyed a peaceful afternoon.

That evening we debated visiting Phuket FantaSea, the island’s large theatrical attraction with elaborate costumes and elephant acts, but instead chose dinner at Mom Tri’s Kitchen at Villa Royale. Perched above the rocks overlooking Kata Noi Beach, the restaurant offered stunning views and a memorable lobster dinner.

Driving north the next day toward our second hotel, we detoured to Phuket Old Town. Once the center of a booming tin industry, the town is filled with Sino-colonial mansions, ornate Buddhist and Chinese shrines, and carefully preserved shophouses that give the area a distinct historical character.

Strolling along Thalang Road we visited renovated shophouses selling herbal medicines and handicrafts, explored Soi Romani—once a red-light district serving tin miners—and slipped down an alley to see the red lacquer-and-gold Shrine of the Serene Light, built in 1889. After a café snack, we continued north to The Sarojin, a five-star boutique resort in Khao Lak.

At the resort entrance we were welcomed by gracious staff and offered a refreshing drink while we checked in. The wood-accented lobby overlooked an impressive pool dotted with lavender and white water lilies. Our room was reached by crossing a small stream through a private garden terrace. After changing into swimwear we wandered through the landscaped grounds to the beach.

The difference between the southern beaches and this stretch of coastline was striking. A dozen teak lounge chairs with bright white cushions and oversized towels sat beneath white umbrellas facing the emerald Andaman Sea. There were no crowds, no noisy watercraft and no commotion—just calm luxury and attentive service. After a swim in warm water we found the spa and booked the famous Thai massage.

The next day we explored nearby Khao Lak, browsing a few shops before returning to the resort for an excellent lunch. Later we walked along the almost seven-mile beach and rented snorkeling equipment from a shore kiosk. The underwater scenery just off the beach was enjoyable, and afterward we relaxed on padded loungers with our books.

Our spa treatments were blissfully restorative; the Thai massage eased every knot and left us completely relaxed. Dinner at Ficus, the resort restaurant beside a softly lit lotus pond, was delicious and capped a day of indulgence that led to a wonderful night’s sleep.

On the drive back to the airport, Gayle and I reflected on a near-perfect getaway. We had sampled both traditional and modern sides of Phuket: bustling beaches and secluded shores, lively nightlife and serene resorts, memorable meals and restorative spa time. Between the variety of beaches, the excellent food and the contrast of experiences, Phuket proved to be a diverse and rewarding beach destination.

Info To Go

Phuket International Airport (HKT) is served by domestic and international airlines, with direct flights from many destinations across Thailand and Asia. Rental cars are available at the airport, along with shuttles and taxis. Shared minibuses typically cost around $7, while private taxis can be closer to $17 depending on your destination. Many upscale resorts offer transfer services when arranged in advance.

Lodging

La Flora Resort & Spa Patong
A modern oceanfront boutique resort featuring two lap pools, a spa, a fitness center and two restaurants. 39 Thaweewong Road, Patong Beach, tel 66 76 344 241. $$$$

The Sarojin
A five-star boutique hotel fronting a nearly seven-mile beach in Khao Lak, known for luxurious accommodations, excellent food and attentive service. 60 Moo 2, Kukkak, Takuapa, Phang Nga, tel 66 76 427 900. $$$$

Sawasdee Village
Not beachfront but close to Kata Beach; noted for traditional Thai architecture, lush gardens and sparkling ponds. 38 Katekwan Road, Kata Beach, tel 66 76 330 979. $$

Dining

Lucky Tom’s
A casual family-run restaurant serving hearty Thai dishes; mussaman curry and whole fish are specialties. 67 Taina Road, Kata Center, tel 66 86 685 6880. $$

Mom Tri’s Kitchen
Overlooking Kata Noi Beach, this restaurant is known for seafood like sea scallops and Phuket lobster, paired with a solid wine list. Villa Royale Resort, 12 Kata Noi Road, tel 66 76 333 568. $$$$

The Sea Hag Restaurant
Popular for fresh seafood and classic Thai dishes, including spicy beef salad and sweet-and-sour squid. 78/5 Permpong Soi III, Thaweewong Road, Patong Beach, tel 66 76 341 111. $$$