We stand motionless in the icy, sub-Arctic Canadian wilderness. Our breath hangs in the crystalline air as we wear expedition-grade polar gear against the sub-zero temperatures and drifting snow. Yet the cold fades into the background — my attention and camera are fixed 100 yards away on a mother polar bear and her two cubs emerging from their den. Through my lens they seem close enough to touch.
Although we are near the bears, we feel safe under the watch of experienced guides equipped with binoculars, rocks for clacking or throwing, bear spray and, as a last resort, 12-gauge shotguns slung over their shoulders (tools they have, thankfully, never had to use). National Geographic photographers on the trip help with focus and exposure and remind us to shelter our cameras under parkas to conserve battery life in the cold.
Polar bears can be seen around Churchill, Manitoba, from June through November, but I chose a more rugged option. The Den Emergence Quest — an annual, two-week program in mid-March — is one of several polar bear–focused adventures run by Churchill Wild, a family-owned company with 25 years of experience operating off-grid, self-sufficient lodges. Mother-and-cub sightings are never guaranteed, but the area near Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, on the edge of Hudson Bay, is world-renowned for its polar bear population. Early each morning, lodge scouts fan out on snowmobiles across the vast white landscape to locate dens and scan the coastline for mothers heading to the ice with their cubs.
Many of these scouts are First Nations people whose ancestors have hunted and fished these lands for generations. Around the lodge fire, if asked, they often share stories of their forebears and the deep, complex relationship with polar bears—seen both as a source of sustenance and as spirit guides.
Scientists estimate about 26,000 polar bears remain in the wild, a decline of roughly 18 percent since 2011, with about 60 percent living in Canada. Polar bears rely on sea ice to reach their primary prey — ringed, harbor and bearded seals. As the climate warms, bears face longer waits in autumn for the freeze-up that allows them to hunt and find mates.
The remote, fly-in Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, recently recognized among National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, has eight en-suite guestrooms that are rustic yet comfortable, each with warm duvets. The Great Room offers panoramic views of Hudson Bay. Curious bears and other wildlife often approach the compound’s 10-foot-high chain-link fence, and it’s not uncommon to spot a polar bear or a pack of wolves sunning themselves on the airstrip as you arrive.
Wolf sighting © CHURCHILL WILD / ANDY SKILLEN
All meals are included. Mornings begin with a hearty breakfast that often includes steaming bowls of Manitoba’s iconic Red River Cereal. Lunches feature hot soup and freshly baked bread, served either in the lodge beside the enormous river-rock fireplace or, when den emergence is imminent, out in the field. Dinners are served family-style and reflect tundra-to-table cooking: caribou Wellington, wild duck fajitas or moose pot roast, accompanied by Canadian VQA wines or craft beers. Plant-based and gluten-free options are available. Water at the lodge is sourced from nearby spring-fed lakes and triple-filtered, preserving the purity of this northern wilderness.
After dinner, step outside to watch the night sky — there’s a real chance of seeing the Northern Lights painting the heavens in pale greens, pinks and violets above the trees.
Summer months offer different wildlife experiences when temperatures can reach as high as 60°F and fireweed turns the landscape pink. In July through November, polar bears may be seen relaxing in wildflower fields, feeding on berries in the boreal forest or resting on tidal sand flats along the shoreline.
Churchill Wild’s eco-lodges emphasize low-impact wildlife viewing. Guided hikes search for polar bears and species such as wolverine, Arctic fox, woodland caribou and moose. Activities also include kayaking and snorkeling with belugas, or traveling in custom “rhino” vehicles to spot more than 100 species of migratory birds, including eagles, great gray owls, eiders, snow geese and swans.
Canada Info to Go
Most international flights arrive at Winnipeg Richardson International Airport.
Churchill Wild’s Den Emergence Quest typically runs in early March. Pricing varies by season and program; past offerings listed fares that included round-trip transportation between Winnipeg and the lodge, accommodations, all meals, excursions to see bears, guiding and the use of expedition-quality Arctic clothing. Summer Polar Bear Safaris operate July through November and include similar services, with some differences in included gear. The lodges have no regular cell service, though a satellite phone and satellite Wi-Fi are available at the main lodge for essential communication.