I was a college sophomore the first time I visited Moscow on a school-sponsored trip with my wrestling team. It was June 1999, and the Russian capital—like much of the country—was still reeling from the financial crisis a year earlier. Communism had fallen, but cronyism filled the void. The result was high unemployment, rising crime and a ruble on the verge of collapse. That Moscow was not a place for families.
A decade later, Moscow has changed dramatically. Prosperous, vibrant, stylish and entertaining, the city now offers many attractions that families can enjoy together. High oil prices helped turn the city into a glitzy, high-end destination: French chefs run kitchen counters, luxury watches sit in former state stores, and former industrial warehouses with austere façades have been repurposed into glittering nightspots.
But modern Moscow is not only about conspicuous wealth. There remains a softer, family-friendly side. A beloved institution with deep cultural roots is the Obraztsov Puppet Theater, where adaptations of classics like Pushkin’s The Queen of Spades and Kipling’s The Jungle Book are staged for audiences of all ages.
In an era of 3-D films and video games, puppetry may seem quaint, yet children respond enthusiastically to the colorful characters, witty voices and handcrafted charm. Named for the renowned Russian puppeteer Sergei Obraztsov, the theater is the largest of its kind in the country. Adjacent to it, the Russian State Museum of Puppetry displays more than 3,000 puppets from around the world, including Petrushka, Russia’s trickster character derived from Pulcinella.
After seeing performances, children often want a toy of their own. For that, Muscovites head to Detsky Mir (Children’s World), a landmark toy store nearby. Opened in 1957, Detsky Mir was once the Soviet Union’s primary toy emporium and a fixture in many childhood imaginations. Though it faced challenges after the transition to a market economy, the store endures today in historic Lubyanka Square, close to the former KGB headquarters.
Puppets and toys are fine, but food matters to curious children. Russia’s blini—thin crepe-like pancakes typically served with sour cream, jam or caviar—are a must-try. One delightful spot for blini is Mari Vanna, a cozy apartment-turned-restaurant in leafy Pushkin Square. The interior evokes a Soviet-era living room, complete with classic black-and-white films on a small television. Families are welcome; kids can pet the resident cat, play with toys and even find maple syrup if they prefer.
After a hearty meal, take the metro to Park Kultury and let kids burn off energy in Gorky Park. Named for writer Maxim Gorky, the park opened in 1928 and was the Soviet Union’s first amusement park. It includes unique attractions, such as a test unit from the Buran Space Shuttle program, allowing children to pretend to be cosmonauts for an afternoon. Other options include a giant Ferris wheel, an alpine slide and bumper boats—many ways to keep children entertained outdoors.
After a busy day at the park, a nap back at the hotel is often in order. Family-friendly rooms are available at several upscale hotels; the Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy, for example, offers family suites with a dedicated “Kids’ Room” connected to the main suite, with childproof beds, playful décor and plenty of toys.
Once rested, head toward the Moscow International House of Music—the Dom Muzyka—located just minutes from the Swissôtel. Opened in 2003 and championed as a significant cultural project, it is Moscow’s first new classical music hall in more than a century. The House of Music forms part of the Riverside Towers cultural-business complex on the Kosmodamianskaya embankment and is home to the National Philharmonic of Russia.
I attended a birthday tribute to conductor Vladimir Spivakov at the House of Music and witnessed a polished program met with standing ovations. Later that evening, the celebration moved to the Swissôtel’s City Space Bar and Lounge on the top floor. With sweeping views of the Moscow skyline, skilled bartenders created inventive cocktails—an example of Moscow’s thriving contemporary nightlife for adults once the children are settled.
Info To Go
Moscow’s two primary international airports are Domodedovo International Airport (DME), about 14 miles from the city center, and Sheremetyevo International Airport (SVO), about 18 miles away. Sheremetyevo handles most international arrivals. Taxi fares from the airports to the city center typically range from $40 to $50, and travel time varies from 20 minutes to two hours depending on traffic, which can be heavy. Moscow’s extensive metro network provides connections from both airports to central terminals. Check local resources for up-to-date transit and airport information.
Lodging
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
One of Moscow’s “Seven Sisters,” this example of Stalinist neoclassical architecture is notable for its carved ceilings and bronze statues in the lobby. 21/40 Kalanchevskaya St., tel 7 495 627 5550, $$$$
The Ritz-Carlton Moscow
A pinnacle of luxury with fine marble finishes and personal butler service, located at the edge of Red Square. 3 Tverskaya St., tel 7 495 225 8888, $$$$
Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy
Modern, stylish and well-appointed, this hotel is well suited to business and family travelers and sits next to the House of Music. 52 Kosmodamianskaya Nab., Building 6, tel 7 495 787 9800, $$$$
Dining
Kai Restaurant & Lounge
A surprising contender for seafood lovers, Kai, led by Chef Jean-Michel Hardouin-Atlan, offers refined dishes and a contemporary setting. 52 Kosmodamianskaya Nab., Building 6, tel 7 495 787 9800, $$$$
Shinok
A faux-Ukrainian tavern with a thatched roof and massive oak door, Shinok serves hearty traditional fare like borscht and pirozhki; farm animals and rustic décor keep children amused. 1905 Ulitsa, Goda 2A, tel 7 495 255 0808, $$$
Starlite Diner (Aquarium Park)
An American-style Art Deco diner with Formica countertops and retro booths, serving familiar fare such as steaks and milkshakes. 16 Bolshaya Sadovaya, near Mayakovskaya metro, tel 7 495 650 0246, $$