Vienna wears the present century lightly, letting modern comforts sit beside a richly preserved past. With Gothic, Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, narrow cobblestone lanes and broad pedestrian squares, the city begs to be explored on foot.
Begin at the Naschmarkt, whose origins stretch back to the 17th century. Running along Linke Wienzeile, this long open-air market hosts around 120 stalls and numerous cafés and restaurants. For items to take home, visit Gegenbauer for an extensive selection of vinegars, sample Sauerkraut Leo, and browse vendors offering cheeses, chutneys, marmalades, coffees, teas, spice mixes and chocolates.
From the Naschmarkt, walk a short distance, turn left onto Schleifmühlgasse and discover a neighborhood transformed since the mills closed a decade ago. The area now blends historic charm with creative new shops and cafés.
At Schleifmühlgasse 15A, FLO stocks superb vintage clothing and accessories dating back to the late 19th century. A few doors down at No. 17, Babette’s Spice & Books for Cooks combines a well-curated cookbook shop with a cozy café. Alt Wien Kaffee at No. 23 roasts beans on site and offers some 35 varieties of coffee. Across the street at No. 6, Gabarage presents remarkable items made from discarded materials: necklaces fashioned from bicycle tire rubber, vases formed from bowling balls, tote bags repurposed from old files and chairs reimagined from books—an inspired destination for unique gifts.
Above all, Vienna’s cafés reveal the city’s spirit. Café Sperl, opened in 1880, retains a timeless atmosphere that feels unchanged. Café Phil mixes a bookstore with a café where the secondhand furniture and many of the cakes are for sale. Café Hawelka still carries the aura of an intellectual meeting place, while Kleines Café is charmingly intimate with only seven tiny tables. Yet these are only a few examples; hundreds of cafés across the city offer places to linger.
If you prefer hot chocolate, Demel on Kohlmarkt 14 is a standout, its interior reflecting late 19th-century style. For the classic Wiener Schnitzel, Plachutta’s Gasthaus zur Oper on Walfischgasse is widely recommended. For practical matters like currency exchange, Bankhaus Schelhammer & Schattera on Goldschmiedgasse is a convenient option.
On my final afternoon in Vienna I visited Café Sacher, the birthplace of the original Sachertorte. A slice of this legendary chocolate cake—layers of dense chocolate sponge filled with apricot jam, finished with a thin coating of bittersweet chocolate and marked by a chocolate medallion that certifies its authenticity—paired with Viennese coffee, makes for a perfect pause. I spent two uninterrupted hours there, relaxing, watching people, reading and soaking up the warmth, joy and timeless character of old Vienna.
Weblinks
Alt Wien Kaffee
Café Sacher Vienna
Demel Shop
Gegenbauer
Plachuttas Gasthaus zur Oper