Bermuda: A Relaxing Island Escape

Businessmen in khaki shorts and navy-blue sports jackets greet you on Hamilton’s streets with a warm smile and a cheery “Hello.” Across the countryside, there are more golf courses per square mile than in most places, immaculately landscaped and as green as billiard felt. Along the coast, pink sands stretch for miles, so you rarely need to arrive early to find a quiet spot to spread a towel. Indeed, Bermuda, with its blend of British formality and island charm, deserves its reputation as one of the most civilized destinations in the Atlantic. If you visit on business during the warm months of April through October, take advantage of the setting and spend at least two days exploring at leisure.

One immediate source of travel stress is eliminated before you arrive: foreigners are not allowed to rent cars. To cross the 21-mile island you can choose ferries, taxis, buses or a moped. Many first-time visitors head straight to a South Shore beach to sink their feet into the soft pink sand and let tension wash away with each footprint. The shoreline is spectacular: sandy coves are tucked between jagged cliffs, sometimes providing an intimate stretch of beach with room for only a couple. Even busier beaches such as Warwick Long Bay rarely feel crowded, even on bright summer days.

In the cool morning hours, before the beaches fill and temperatures rise, consider horseback riding along the South Shore Park trails. Spicelands Equestrian Centre leads an hourlong ride across a bluff above the beaches. Along the way you’ll take in sweeping ocean panoramas, ride through stands of tall cedar, and pass fields dotted with wild mustard, blooming cacti and oleander in pink, blue and white.

An often overlooked way to get around is the “pedal-bike,” the local term for bicycle. From 1931 to 1948 the Bermuda Railway ferried more than 14 million passengers across the island; when cars became common the line was removed and transformed into the Railway Trail, a scenic walking and biking corridor.

Rent a bike from Oleander Cycles, which has six locations across Bermuda, and follow the northern shore westward. Along the route you’ll see children in uniform playing cricket and gardens overflowing with purple morning glory and red hyacinth in spring. Eventually you’ll reach Somerset Village and its tiny drawbridge, recorded as early as 1620. Cross the red-brick arch, watch the fish below, then ride back through the island’s mellow coastal landscape.

Bermuda’s turquoise seas are never far from view, but the island’s reefs have a darker history. For centuries, ships struck the thorny reef that encircles Bermuda, and the surrounding waters earned a fearful reputation. More than 350 documented shipwrecks rest in the area—perhaps more than anywhere else in the Western Hemisphere outside the Florida Keys. These wrecks span eras: Spanish galleons from the late 1500s, Confederate blockade runners from the Civil War, early-20th-century luxury liners, and large World War II freighters.

Those wrecks are now prime destinations for scuba divers. Local dive operators offer guided trips to these submerged time capsules, where you can swim through intact galleys and corridors. Highlights include The Hermes, a 165-foot steel freighter from World War II now upright in about 80 feet of crystal-clear water; the Cristobal Colón, a 499-foot trans-Atlantic liner that struck the reef in 1936; and the Mary Celestia, a 225-foot paddlewheel steamer that sank in 1864 after smuggling supplies during the Civil War.

Snorkelers will also enjoy the clarity of Bermuda’s waters and the abundance of marine life. Church Bay’s reefs teem with blue parrotfish, colorful queen angelfish, turtles and sometimes porpoises. For whale watching, head to Spittal Pond, a favored nature preserve that also draws birdwatchers spotting white-tailed tropicbirds nesting in cliffside caves and egrets feeding along the shallows. Unexpectedly, wild hens, roosters and chicks can be seen throughout the park and across the island.

Near the international airport on the eastern side of the island you’ll find Crystal Caves. Discovered in 1905 when two boys chasing a cricket ball revealed an opening, the caves now offer guided tours through a dramatic underground world. While boat rides on the subterranean lake are no longer offered, visitors can walk among stalagmites and stalactites shaped like organ pipes and alligator jaws, their reflections in the water evoking a surreal skyline.

At Bermuda’s western tip sits the Royal Naval Dockyard, the island’s most popular attraction. Built by the British after the American Revolution, the sprawling former fortress is now a lively waterfront park serving cruise passengers and island visitors. The Bermuda Maritime Museum, housed in a substantial stone building on the grounds, displays treasure recovered from centuries of wrecks: gold bars, jewelry, coins and pottery, including the Tucker Treasure discovered in 1955 by local diver Teddy Tucker at the wreck of the Spanish San Antonio.

From the Royal Naval Dockyard it’s an easy ferry ride back to Hamilton. Shopping for British goods can sometimes be less expensive than in the United States due to lower tariffs; you’ll find cashmere, Scottish woolens, fine china and porcelain. The island’s long seafaring history makes it a good place to find antiques—19th-century furniture, engravings and nautical items like steering wheels and brass nameplates. Contemporary art appears at the Bermuda Arts Centre, and shops sell local perfumes, handbags and the Bermuda shorts favored by businessmen who pair them with jackets and ties.

The Fairmont Hamilton Princess hosts a lively Friday happy hour that locals favor. Late in the afternoon, crowds gather on the hotel patio overlooking the harbor for live music and classic Bermuda cocktails such as the Dark ‘n Stormy and the Rum Swizzle. For a taste of local cuisine, try the island’s signature fish chowder—often served with a splash of Gosling’s Black Seal rum—at The Lobster Pot. Port O Call is another downtown favorite, known for pan-seared local fish and spiny lobster.

Reaching Bermuda is simple: it’s less than a two-hour flight from Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C., and lies about 600 miles off the coast of North Carolina. With regular air service and reliable ferries, you don’t have to brave treacherous shoals to arrive—only decide whether to linger on the pink sands or explore the island’s many delights. Either choice is a pleasant one.

Bermuda Info to Go

Taxis from Bermuda International Airport (BDA) are convenient but can be pricey; buses and ferries are regular and cover the island well. Ferries are an easy, relaxed way to see Hamilton and the eastern and western tips of Bermuda. Weather can change quickly, with sudden heavy showers, especially in spring, so pack a raincoat and a compact umbrella. May and June are excellent for fewer crowds, pleasant warmth and easier restaurant access. The Atlantic is at its warmest in July, August and September, while October remains relatively warm and quieter than peak summer months.

Bermuda Lodging

The Fairmont Hamilton Princess Opened in 1885 and recently renovated, this downtown hotel has hosted royalty and celebrities. A complimentary boat shuttle connects guests to The Fairmont Southampton for additional amenities. 76 Pitts Bay Road, Hamilton $$

Grotto Bay Beach Resort Relax on the beach, swim in a heated pool, dine at multiple restaurants, enjoy live music and even experience a massage in a private cave at Bermuda’s only all-inclusive resort. 11 Blue Hole Hill, Bailey’s Bay $$

The Reefs An intimate resort with its own striking stretch of sand and attentive service that makes guests feel at home. 56 South Road, Southampton $$$

Restaurants in Bermuda

Henry VIII A local favorite near The Reefs offering fish, shrimp scampi and filet mignon; many Bermudians praise its sushi. 69 South Road, Southampton $$

The Lobster Pot Known for Bermuda’s signature fish chowder—spiced with sherry pepper sauce and often finished with a splash of Gosling’s Black Seal rum—served on a patio frequented by locals and visitors alike. 6 Bermudiana Road, Hamilton $$

Port O Call A Front Street staple overlooking the harbor and ferry terminal, celebrated for fresh grilled fish, lobster and pan-roasted scallops. 87 Front St., Hamilton $$